I'm on board with 4ster's appraisal. I rather like the thick, heavy wet spring snow these days. Used to despise such conditions - but that was before I figured out how use it to my advantage.
I think along Weems' idea of 'Platforming' and concentrate on forming a banked-platform using the base of both skis while turning them together.
My method in soft, wet and sticky snow...
1) I begin turns progressively (Never
sharply!) in soft snow. I keep my upper-body moving with my skis across the slope
until the base of each tip is being deflected into the turn enough to warrant moving my CM further inside the new turn. I never dive across my skis ahead of the actual turning of my skis. Instead, I simply stand on them while coaxing them
to turn me
downhill. I go only when they go.
2) Steering the skis with independent leg steering (ILS) still works in these conditions, it just works much more slowly. I don't try to force or rush it because there's no point. Instead, I keep a constant mild
twisting tension into the turn at both skis while I stay F/A balanced over them and guide them into the new turn. Letting my CM get behind my feet even a little will cause the skis to track rather straight instead of turning so I make sure they don't sneak ahead of me in the least.
3) If I want a short radius turn I do
need high edge-angles at some point - but I don't try to get those high angles right away! A progressive tipping process works best for me even if I need high edge-angles. Trying to tip to much up too soon in soft wet snow doesn't have the same quick-initiation effect as it does on a groomed surface. I wait until the turn is well-begun before going after that sharper radius with higher edge-angles (think Sine Wave curves).
On firm surfaces the edges at the tips firmly engage and forcibly bend the skis quickly. In soft gooey conditions there's nothing for that tip's edge to engage against so the ski doesn't bend nearly as quickly. Instead, the base under the tip must travel some distance for sufficient pressure to build up under that tip to bend the ski. This can be sped up by 'pouncing' on the skis right at turn entry, but that takes more energy (and I'm pretty lazy). Skiers who typically transition quickly from high edge-angles on one side to high edge-angles on the other tend to have more difficulty in all kinds of soft snow than those who implement progressive edge-angle changes.
4) As each turn begins I continue moving with my skis making no effort to hurry the turn. It's more like nurturing
a turn than forcing a turn. I keep my feet within a few inches of each other and try to stay balanced between
my feet rather than being outside-foot dominant. Puting too much weight onto one foot cause that ski to dive suddenly deeper, slow down sharply and produces a skier-pirouette with subsequent body-divot. Best to keep both skis puttering along at the same depth.
5) I also like to maintain a meaningful tip-lead as this helps my boots and lower-legs cut more easily through the high resistance snow. A squarish stance tends to cause wet snow to accumulate in a bow-wave in front of my boots and slows me down greatly. It also pins my feet down and limits my ability to launch up & over suddenly-there obstacles. Tip-lead helps cut through it and limit the bow-wave.
6) For speed control I finish my turns further across-the-slope - but I make sure I keep sufficient speed to slide all the way through transition and back into a zone of acceleration (which may be quite close to the actual fall-line in such snow). In other words, I don't
kill my speed at the end of a turn, and instead use my continuing across-the-slope velocity to accomplish point # 1 above. My new turn entry will be progressive and will take a bit of distance to accomplish so I need that velocity to to keep the cycle going. If I kill my speed too much, I'll need to make a big move into the new turn (toward the fall-line) to get going again and that will require forcing a turn far more quickly than this snow condition likes to permit.
7) Finally, I try to keep both skis fully 'weighted' all the time - especially during transition (None of that energetic hopping stuff for me!). As I come out of my old turn my skis are nicely bent. Why on earth would I want to lose that highly functional bend by now unweighting them? Why not just keep the existing ski-bend from my old turn and roll it over - thus using it as the initial
ski-bend for my new turn (making effort #1above easier)? On firm snow this isn't possible because the skis will flatten out against the flat, firm surface underfoot. In deep soft snow I can maintain the bend right through transition by keeping my weight on them because there's no "flat surface" under me for the skis to flatten out against.
That's pretty much the basics of what I do.
If I'm in sticky snow and on the flats I do what Davluri suggests. Since I want the skis to 'Hydroplane' I lean against the back of my boots and bend the fronts of the skis up off the snow. For reduced resistance I may also lift one ski while leaning back a bit. Finding the "right" amount of surface contact for least resistance seems dependent on actual snow conditions precisely where I am. Travel another 50 feet and I may need to modify how much ski is making contact. The goal is to find just the right amount - at which point I'll feel a sudden 'release' and zip forward. Pretty hard to ski this way for long though. It's just good for getting across flats and back to steeper slopes.