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Atomics - Ceramic base

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
I notice that some of the 2004 Atomics now have ceramic bases along the edges (ie. C11, R11, R10). It sounds like a good thing, but I wonder how they would be for tuning and repairs? The ceramic base is more durable and supposedly prevent edge burn?

Wouldn't the ceramic base be problem if you're going get the base stone ground. Or if you took a rock hit on the ceramic base and cracked it, how would you repair it?

Any techies out there want to comment?
post #2 of 4
Ceramics are very impressive materials actually. You would be surprised just what they will withstand. Just because it says that it is a ceramic does not mean that it is a hard brittle material... which is probably what comes to mind when someone say ceramic to you. PhysicsMan can probably tell you more about the properties as well as the different types of ceramics, but I'm willing to bet that its is a very good alternative to P-tex. It is probably not used over the entire base because the P-tex will offer a better frictionless surface. The compound that they are using will no doubt be able to withstand base grinds just as a normal base would. As far as repairs, in case you hit a rock or something, you can probably fill it in with regular ptex just like you would a normal base repair. My take on it is that it will probably not make a huge difference in the performance of the ski if the material is there or not. What it will do though is make the base material that is near the edge of the ski much more durable. You wont find core shots right next to your edges, so probably it will decrease the liklihood of your edges blowing out after a hard hit to them.
post #3 of 4
I have a pair of R11s and my wife has the R10s.

The material on the edges is like a P-tex/ceramic mixture. It is still soft but harder than normal P-tex and goes in from the edges about an inch for most of the ski where it makes contact with the snow while carving.

I took a decent rock hit to my base last year and the grey edge took it pretty well. It does seem alittle harder because I had a small hole with no long cut in it where I must have nailed a small rock dead on.

I asked a person who used to work at Atomic last week about repairing the cermaic edges. He said just use a normal P-tex repair because they don't sell the exact compund anywhere. I would probably use the harder clear repair material that is used for edge repairs to metal and fiberglass.

I wouldn't worry about a basegrind as the cermaic sides have the crosshatch pattern so it must be OK for it.
post #4 of 4
What they said.
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