EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Blending waxes - what works what doesn't
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Blending waxes - what works what doesn't

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

It seems many people here have their favorite waxes but also blend waxes together for certain conditions. Just wondering what you have tried and what works in what conditions. Are there any general rules you have found regarding blending different brands, non fluoro vs fluoro, different melting temperatures etc? 

post #2 of 9

I use a universal wax for convenience, and "extend" the range of it with a warm or cold graphite/molybdenum wax.  I simply rub the graphite wax on the base and iron the universal wax over it,  finishing the base in the usual way.  It works great when the temperature drops into the frostbite zone, and pretty good when it is really warm.    It works for me, although I'm sure you will get at least 30 other ideas from the next 15-20 people posting. 


I have used different universal waxes over the years and some are better than others.  The advice you get from the sponsors here is really good.  They carry excellent product and they know their wax. 


I don't think there are any issues of mixing fluro or non-fluro wax except for breathing the stuff.  You can always buy the powder and mix it into regular hydrocarbon wax, but why bother?  A decent universal wax is all you need unless you are racing.

post #3 of 9

I also mix waxes.  I find it difficult to work with hard, cold-snow waxes, so mixing them with some all-temp wax makes it easier to apply and scrape.  You loose some in performance, but fine for a recreational skier.


I also will keep pieces of wax too small to hold against the iron, collect them, then melt together, even if they are differing makes/types of wax.  I have a small metal pot to mix&melt, then pour into the hard plastic containers the original wax was in.  Keep the temp low so that wax does not smoke, just like with ironing.

post #4 of 9

I mix, especially when the daily temps are going to span multiple wax temp ranges. I've mostly done this using Fast Wax shop bars which I got on super sale at my local shop. Usually the melting temps are pretty similar, but I haven't tried mixing the fluoros. I have found that blending helps make scraping much easier with the harder waxes.

post #5 of 9

Mixing waxes is done all the time in racing, usually using the same brand but not always. Mixing HC, LF and HF is not at all uncommon either. Some combinations don't always seem sensible but seem to work for some, like mixing very cold and very warm (skipping the wax that is in the middle range). Racers like the hardness of cold waxes on their bases but also rely on the chemistry for matching snow temperature to the wax's rated range.


One way to easily mix cold wax, or for that matter apply straight, is to use a cheese grater. The grater turns the hard wax into a powder that is very easy to iron into another coat of wax or just straight. Tip the iron slightly so the leading edge is heating and melting the wax while the trailing edge is spreading the wax. This application method helps to reduce the chipping that occurs when you scrape wax after it cools. Grating the wax also makes it easier to control the ratio of cold wax to other waxes as it covers the base universally before it is ironed. Try it the next time you need to use cold wax. note: the wax leaves virtually no residue on the cheese grater so a good washing up and you can put the grater back in the kitchen.


Racers will apply hard wax, either by crayoning it or dripping it, along the edges under the foot to help protect the base at its most vulnerable location on the ski. Some will apply cold wax over the wax of the day from edge to edge under the foot.


For the wax pot that Buster uses, be aware that wax is flammable. Use an electric heating element, not gas. Have a cover for the pot handy just in case to suffocate any flames.

post #6 of 9


These days I only blend for superfunky conditions.     That said, in the Mid-Atlantic we get a lot of those.




Warm air temps + Highmoisture content manmade snow sprayed directly on runs (no snow whales, no aging, "wet sandpaper" type), (*cough*7Springs*cough*): 


Maplus Race Base Hard + Toko Dibloc (LF) Blue


Cold air temps + direct-sprayed high-liquid manmade (the dreaded "wet spots on dry" snow that freezes up on ski bases):


Maplus Race Base Medium + LF4


Slush all day, top to bottom:


Hertel Hot Sauce + Zardoz


Highly aerated *packed* direct-sprayed manmade snow, wet styrofoam consistency (*cough*Roundtop*cough)


Maplus Race Base Medium + Hertel Hot Sauce

Slush mid-afternoon and coral reef between 5pm and 10pm:


Maplus Race Base Hard + Toko Moly


Late season slush + snowhale aged snow, possible light showers or light snow showers (may include rain-saturated "wet sponge"-type snow)  (*cough*Timberline*cough*)


Hertel Hot Sauce + Toko Moly



Blends I've used in the past, now obsolete:


CH6 + Hertel Hot    -  replaced by Maplus RBM or Purl blue

Nobi Red + paraffin - replaced by Swix Base Prep

LFG4 + FC739  -  replaced by Maplus RBH +  Toko Moly + FC739



Edited by comprex - 3/7/11 at 11:08am
post #7 of 9

I blend in a Holmenkol graphite/moly additive in 2 conditions: supercold (for its anti static properties) added to a swix CH 4 (non race) or Race Service arctic or Dominator bullet sometimes with a little fluoro; or very warm melting manmade snow (dirt repelling). For the very warm, if I am racing I also add concentrated fluoro (Holmenkol GW25) to the hi fluoro wax (humidity above 75%) usual formula 40 wax, 20 moly, 40 fluoro. For non race in these same conditions I use the Holmenkol glacier wax that they have for summer race camps (I don't know if it is generally available) or alpha mix with the silicone additive plus the moly. For warm or high humidity natural snow racing, fluoro added anywhere from 10 to 50%.

post #8 of 9

I have bars of Purl blue and purple "welded" together that make my standard daily rewax for average conditions.  If it's really cold, like below Zero, I'll use green.


I warm the ski bottom with the iron, melt the wax onto the iron with the bottom held horizontal upside down and then smear it onto the ski and work it out to as thin a coat as possible.  I don't scrape, but rather drag a paper towel along the ski with the iron on top of it.  I brush after the wax cools.  Two bars last me about 100 days that way.

post #9 of 9

KB, do you warm the ski with an iron without any new wax on the ski?

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