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How to progress from skidded turns to carving turns ?

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 

So the technique I've been taught was to torsionally twist the board via my front foot.  I do my turns as follow:


1. Traversing on heel edge, i would relax my front foot so that my board will drift down the fall line (rear foot still engaged in heel edge)

2.  Once board is going down the fall line, relax rear foot, board will go flat for a sec

3.  Initiate toeside turn by looking where i want to go, dip shoulder, press down on toes/lean towards shin with FRONT foot, once turn is initiated, engage toe edge (now both feet are on toe edge, heels lifted, knees bent, pushing shin against boots)

4.  Then I start going back to my heel edge by the same routine



Note that most of my turns are carved, but upon completing my turn, I skid the hell out of it because I'm afraid of the speed.  Few questions:


When i'm in steeper terrain, I'm really afraid of initiating that toe side turn.  The thought of shifting my weight to the front is too scary since the board is going straight down the mountain.  Usually what happen is,I would flatten the board, and because of the speed, I will go "omg omg omg" and naturally just lean back hoping to slow down, trying to engage toe edge here of course does not work.  I mean i know that, but I couldn't control myself.


How do I overcome the fear of allowing my weight to shift to the front and turn toeside? I have no problem going to heel side.


Also, if i want to get away from skidding too much while completing my turn, at the top of my turn while I'm still carving my turn, (on toeside), and wanting to go to my heel side, do I just rock directly from toe edge to heel edge without allowing my board to go flat? How do I prevent myself from catching an edge?


*you have no idea how many heel side edge i've caught doing this....maybe I was side slipping*


Thank you!


edit to add:


I tried this method Rusty had posted before:


Find a flat cat trail and make narrow turns only by moving your ankles to stand taller and sink down. Your upper body should stay over the board. Opening your ankles should make the board go to toe side edge. Closing your ankles should make the board go to heel side. To the extent that you get the board on edge, it will turn. The more your body stays vertical over the board, the more you will feel the power of the ankles in making you turn.


Not on a cat trail but on the bottom of a green run to get to the lift, it's very flat.  I can't remember how I do this, but do i have to momentarily alllow my board to go flat, or since it's basically flat, there is no slide slip going on, i don't have to worry about it?

post #2 of 23

Whoa girl!


I would not use that method to solve this problem. Yikes!


There's a lot of questions to answer here. Let's start with this statement:

*you have no idea how many heel side edge i've caught doing this....maybe I was side slipping*

I believe! I see it a lot. The main contributing factors are too flat a board and too much weight on the back foot. You already know why you have too much weight on the back foot (I will go "omg omg omg" and naturally just lean back hoping to slow down). My most common cure for too flat a board on toe side turns is to arch your back.


Try this exercise at home. Stand with your arms reaching over your head as high as you can get them (elbows above the ears, fingers extended). Now turn your palm to face the sky. You should feel your back arch automatically. Now bend your knees and lift your heels off the floor. You should be able to adjust the height of your heels off the floor up and down without having to move any body part above the waist. Now bring your hands down into snowboard riding position (without losing the arch) and repeat the heel raising and lowering. If it's hard, you've lost the back arch. Be careful with this exercise because if you just arch your back from a flat footed position you will just weight your heels instead of your toes. Often times I will have my students ride their toe side turns with their hands over their heads to help them get used to this. It looks goofy, but it works if you remember to lower hands for heel sides, then raise them for toe sides and to arch your back when you raise your hands. You don't need a lot of arch. 


"How do I prevent myself from catching an edge?"

If you are moving in the same direction as the board is oriented and your weight is over the top of the board when you change edges you will not catch and edge. The ankle drill you mention above is an example of this concept. Changing edges while you are skidding is how you catch an edge. If you are sliding down the hill with the board sideways and flat, it's real easy for the board "to change edges" to the downhill edge and "Wham!" happens. You prevent this by engaging the uphill edge.


The problem here is that a catch 22 is involved. If you're going to fast (OMG), you're going to weight the rear foot. If you weight the rear foot, it's going to start skidding into being the front foot. As it does that, you will start losing your uphill edge engagement and transition to flat board. Which means you'll start going faster and do a bigger OMG. Repeat until you crash.


In order to break this cycle, we need to do two things: get the speed down below OMG level and start turns with a forward movement. If you watch first timers fall when they get off a chairlift, it looks like they sit back as the reason they fall. What's really happening though is that they stand up, the board starts moving down the hill and they don't move with with the board. The board gets ahead of them first, then they get afraid and finish the sit. How do you fix this? Everything has to go forward after you stand up. The way you were taught to turn (board twist, initiate with the front foot first) is designed to encourage this movement automatically. But if speed reaches OMG level, it's easy to lose it.


So how do you stop overweighting the rear foot? Slow down! How do you slow down? Either flatten the terrain you are on, make the snow slower, use more edge or turn more. Oh if we could only go riding on powder or slush days, but at least be aware that on days when the snow is (ahem) "fast" we should be seeking flatter terrain. We've already covered how to get higher edge angles. How do we turn more? The most basic form of this is to slide the hips forward so that the front leg is bent more than the back leg. Going straight down the hill, you will find that this is impossible to do until you are more experienced. But going across the hill at a constant speed, this is something you can do  If you can track across the hill (aka traverse), you can rotate your feet so that the board noses uphill. If you then do board twist before you come to a stop, it's much easier to incorporate forward movement so that engage the downhill edge of the board above the fall line and carve the turn until that new inside edge becomes the uphill edge. At this point if you've let the board get ahead of you, the back foot will slide downhill of the front foot and you're in trouble again. But if you've slowed down enough before  the turn started, you won't have accelerated too much during the turn and you'll be able to stay centered enough for the back foot to follow the front foot and finish the carve until you're drifting uphill to finish the new turn and start the cycle over again. Once you've trained your brain that you don't have to weight the back foot to slow down (it is an option, but it does not have to be your only option), then you can get comfortable with speed and stop finishing your turns going all the way back uphill. But until you can trust that the board can turn you and that turn shape can control speed, you can't break the catch 22 of skidding to finish your turns and the risk of slamming on a flat board. If you can't get enough weight on the front foot to hold an edge and traverse across a slope, find a flatter slope until you can.


I'll also bet that the final piece of the puzzle is that you are not flexing and extending enough. It's quite common for new riders to stiffen up when they go on steeper terrain. Flexing and extending the legs is a key movement that enables getting turns started. This movement is supposed to be another natural result of learning to start turns via board twist, but it doesn't always happen. One drill I use to help increase vertical movement in the lower body is to ride holding your knees, then touch your hands to your shoulders briefly to change edges, then return to holding your knees. When you can do this, change to holding the tops of your boots (1/2 way between knees and ankles) instead of your knees. Advanced riders should be able to do this drill holding the tops of their toes or touching the board in between touching their shoulders. This simulates the amount of movement used in moguls and steeps.


Way to go girl! I'll be looking for you on the Hobacks at Jackson!

post #3 of 23
Thread Starter 

Thank you so much Rusty!


I do know the importance of arching my back, I think I was trying it and forgetting to lower my stance, I focused on arching my back and thrust my hip forward and I ended up looking like an idiot standing really tall.  I'll try to remember to bend those knees while doing this.


Sorry, i'm reading this and I don't know what it means:

But going across the hill at a constant speed, this is something you can do  If you can track across the hill (aka traverse), you can rotate your feet so that the board noses uphill.


If you then do board twist before you come to a stop, it's much easier to incorporate forward movement so that engage the downhill edge of the board above the fall line and carve the turn until that new inside edge becomes the uphill edge


Say that I'm traversing on my heel edge and want to do a toe side turn.  I would be carving on my heel side and let it go till the nose go up hill (almost like I'm about to switch and go heel side down on my other side?), and it almost come to a stop, but then I would start my board twist at this point?  At this point, my board is not flat, i should have both my front and rear foot on heel edge, correct? without letting my board go flat, I would start my front foot twist by relaxing my front foot, but rear foot still engaged with heel edge?

I think changing edge here is the scary part, i felt like I'm still on my heel edge and it's the trailing edge and if i twist the board, I'll catch a toe edge? no?


By the way, I'll be able to ride this weekend in powder (it'll be snowing!!) , i think it'll offer me alot of opportunity to try different things without having to fall on ice! Hopefully that OMG feeling will go away!! :)


And yes, when I'm on green, i'm slow and I can take the time to remember to flex and extend (i just call them sink down and rise up, since i'm having a hard time remember what is flexing...!)  , when I go to steeper terrain, all I can remember is I need to survive this and not cartwheel down this mountain, i forget everything.  :P

post #4 of 23



You're on the right track. If you finish your heel sides going slightly uphill, start your next turn as soon as you reduce to a comfortable speed. Then when you twist your board to get the front foot on your toe edge, you can also shift your weight forward to stand harder on the front foot at the same time. This is easier to do because of that forward movement being across the hill. If you finish your old turn with an up the hill track, the forward movement is laterally across the slope instead of downhill. When you do board twist your board effectively never goes totally flat because there is little or no time gap between when the new front foot toe edge engages and when the rear foot heel edge releases. I don't tell my students to relax their front foot to do board twist. I tell them to step on it! You want to engage the downhill edge of the nose of the board at this point, but you won't slam because you are not skidding. It's scary (especially if you've slammed a lot already), but it works. It's easier to do when you are going across the hill because a) you must have more tracking than skidding to get across the slop and b) your movement is across the slope instead of down. But this is hard to do on your own. All that said, this stuff is hard to learn over the Internet.


Good luck for finding fresh pow. The rules change in softer snow. You'll be wanting to steer with the back foot more and shift weight back to let the nose of the board ride up on top. Some folks slide their bindings back a set of holes.

post #5 of 23
Thread Starter 

I think this week maybe great to try these new things out, since there will be powder everywhere!! :)

I shall report back!  Thank you again!!


I have to try to convince myself that when the board is not skidding, i can change edge safely.  Because I'm a chicken, the snow is so new to me, speed scares me alot, so I skid my turn, and when i was first learning and not concentrating, i will go from toe edge to heel edge while skidding (just the thought about this sends chills down my spine!!!)

I think i really need to be convinced that it will be okay as long as I'm not skidding, confidence here! no more OMG


One more quick question before I head out there,  there are cat tracks everywhere, flat sorta, can i just rock my board toe side and heel side , this sounds like a disaster, I remember doing this on the bottom of the hill getting back to the lift line, but I honestly cannot remember if i have to do the torsional flex thingy.  Do i still need to allow my board to go flat before changing edge in these situation? I'm making very shallow turns, almost going straight, on very low edge. Or am i asking for an edge catch this way?


Thanks again!!!

post #6 of 23

"I have to try to convince myself " - yep - that's why this needs to be learned at slow speeds on flat terrain and going across the hill versus down the fall line. There is an argument that one learns this faster and easier on terrain with some pitch because the feedback is more noticeable, but my opinion is that fear overrides this. One teaching method I use to resolve this dilemma is something I call power assist. I will ride side by side with you holding on only as much as I need to in order to keep you from falling and to help guide into making the right movements. You may seem some folks doing this holding each others arms facing each other. I do this with both riders facing the same direction and holding onto the hips (or other body parts as needed). Student's get a much higher sense of confidence from this level of "assistance". This lets them learn movements at a much faster rate. Very few pros are willing and able to teach this way.


Cat tracks are a problem for riders. Shifting tiny amounts of edge hold from one edge to the other is how I mostly do it. Torsional flex does not really matter here. You're going to have the board mostly flat anyway. The other thing that may help is shifting your weight a little more forward than usual. 

post #7 of 23

take this fwiw, as I'm a n00b - but one technique I found really worked well for me (although I was dubious when the instructor recommended it, since another instructor had told me to keep even weight distribution at all times) was to weight the front foot to start the transition from heel to toe, or vice versa.


e.g., heading across slope on heel with even weight distro, I'd gradually weight the front foot more (never to 100%, maybe 75/25 front/back) and find the board start facing downhill. As the board starts facing downhill, you ease off on the heel (i.e., center body over board) and then, once the board's facing downhill you lean into the mountain and ease onto the toe edge. The key here, from what the instructor tells me, is to have the board flat and pointed downhill before you shift from heel to toe, or vice versa.


post #8 of 23

btw, what's a "cat track?"

post #9 of 23
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by netarc View Post

btw, what's a "cat track?"

I am not sure if it's really called a cat track or cat walk or whatever its called, but it's a narrow ummm track, that connects different mountains, or different runs.  The one's that I've been on usually is mountain on one side, and the other side is like a freakn cliff.  It's narrow and flat , if you dont' have momentum coming from before, you will get stuck.  You cannot do wide S turns because you'll fall off the cliff.  I hate them.


Rusty:  I didn't get to go ride when it was snow storming, the weather condition was way too bad to drive, but I went this past weekend and it was ALOT of fun.  I cannot really tell the difference with the snow condition since I mainly stayed on groomers, but I didn't fall that much this time either!! I didn't get a chance to try out the carving technique though because it's been so long and I forgot to re-read it first.  But as I re-read this again, I am getting it more.


If my heel side traverse is going slightly back up hill, then instead of relaxing my front foot to point board down hill, I would just slam my toes (front foot) to engage the toe edge, the question is : is my rear foot still engaged in heel edge?  I think i do this alot because this makes me feel super safe that I won't catch an edge!!  I may take another lesson just to get this down.


Thanks :)





post #10 of 23

A snow cat is another name for a groomer (the machines that push the snow around and texture it to make it easier to ride on). Cat tracks are trails that are cut into slopes like the switchbacks on roads made for cars to get over mountains so that the "cats" can get around the mountain easier. Many were originally made to allow material to be trucked up the mountain for building lodges and lift towers.


I also tell beginners to over weight the front foot and that this weighting movement will start the board turning down the hill. I know why that instructor told you to wait until the board was pointing down the hill before changing edges, but I prefer not to teach this way because a round turn starts with engaging the downhill edge.


Noob - you are on the right track. Yes, the heel edge is still engaged until the front toe edge engages (not really true for stiff boards, but true enough for beginners). You still relax the front foot and do board twist and the board still moves in the direction of the new turn as a result. All you are doing here is "rotating the clock". If 12 o'clock is uphill, 3 o'clock is left and 6 o'clock is downhill. a normal toe side turn would have you finishing the heel side turn with the nose of the board pointed at 4:30. At this point, in order to move your weight to the inside of the new turn, you would need to be moving your body in the 5:30-6 o'clock direction. Brain does not like doing this. If you have experience slamming, brain really does not like doing this. If you finish the heel side turn with the board pointed at 2:00, then the movement to change edges and get inside the new turn is in the 3 -3:30 direction. Brain is much happier with this because you are not throwing yourself down the hill. With enough success changing edges this way, brain will start to let you make turns from any clock position. As long as the board is not skidding when you change edges, you will not slam.


Now let's pretend that we start a toe side turn with the board pointed at 3:00 and ends with the board pointed at 6:00. But now let's look at the clock as a map of a turn. The turn starts at 12:00 with the board pointing to the side of the hill, it's pointing straight down the hill at 3:00 and ends at 6:00 with the board pointed to the other side of the hill. This would be the map of a round turn. The key point here is that from 12:00-3:00 you are controlling your speed and from 3:00-6:00 you are accelerating. When you start your turn at 3:00 instead of 12:00, the only place to control speed is from 3:00-6:00 and the only way to slow down going from 3:00 to 6:00 is to skid. If you are still skidding when you hit 6:00 and it's time to change from toe to heel, you are in big trouble. It's possible to stop skidding before you start your turn, but it's not easy. When you don't need to slow down from 3:00-6:00, you don't need to skid and it's easy to change edges without slamming. 


Skidding as a tool to control speed is an essential tool in a rider's tool kit. But using turn shape to control speed instead of skidding is what lets a ride change edge without fear. After you learn to use turn shape to control your speed, you will quickly shed your "beginner" status.

post #11 of 23
Thread Starter 

I ride goofy, so I take it I'll reverse the clock right?


If i understand correctly, basically I'm trying to make wide radius turns, and start my edge change earlier than what i've been doing (Now i start my edge change at 6'clock nose pointing down hill board is flat. 


From your description above, its basically what happened to me..... I would initiate my toeside turn, no problem, then it goes to 12:00 (pointing to side of hill), sadly, i skid down for a bit before I have knew it, to release some of my front foot pressure so it goes back down hill, and wait till it is flat then I start my heel side turn.  So i'm basically skidding from 12 till 6 (downhill).  So you're wanting me to make my board go to 11 (uphill pass the fall line), and initiate the turn there?  I better be darn sure that I'm carving not skidding then right?

So scary!!!


Should I just continue to practice the skidded turns until I'm no longer afraid of speed or something? I'm getting really bored doing the same thing on the green runs...and gentle blues...

post #12 of 23

If you ride goofy the heel side turn goes from 12 to 9 to 6 instead of 12 to 3 to 6.


The radius is not as important as the shape. Even when you make short radius turns you want to make them round. It's harder to round short radius turns than large radius turns.


If you can hold an edge and traverse across a slope, you can do what I'm asking you to do. Start by traversing across the slope and nosing the board uphill to stop. Then traverse and nose the board uphill just to slow down a little, then steer the nose of the board back into the traverse to continue. When you are comfortable with that, you will be able to do board twist from the uphill position to change edges and go into the new turn instead of just nosing back into the traverse.


If you are skidding when you change edges, you will slam.

post #13 of 23
Thread Starter 

Cool!! I'm heading out this weekend and will report back!! Thank you Rusty!! 


So I'll be doing these garlands nosing then uphill right? And I take it that I just need to fully complete the turn plus use a tad more pressure on my rear foot so that it will traverse a tad uphill? This sounds like a drill I can handle!!! Yay!!




BTW, last week, when I actually do my toe side turn and leaning on my front foot, i didn't once have those OMG feeling!! Way to go!  Thank you!

post #14 of 23



UR welcome. Keep those reports coming.


I'd prefer that you nose the board uphill by keeping the weight centered/forward and increasing the edge angle. When you turn the board this way, weight will naturally shift rearward after you turn uphill. If you turn your feet/weight the rear foot to cause the nose of the board to turn up hill, you will skid. Because you are turning the board uphill, any skid will quickly dissipate so it's not a big difference. The key is to start the new turn with a forward movement onto the front foot.

post #15 of 23
Thread Starter 

Got cha! Not sure what I was thinking, I always keep a 60 40, even 70-30 when initating a toeside turn, but I do get freak out a bit and when it swings up hill, i let it skid down , I will try your drill tomorrow. can't waaaait!!!

post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 

Rusty!! Spent two days up on the slope and your method totally rocks.  I can't carve all my turns, but I can do it on the green slopes, when it's steeper, the speed is still a bit intimidating to me.  I can also carve better going from toeside to heel side, I'm not sure why. (oh, maybe because initiating the toeside turn is still a little bit scary, but i swear, I don't go "OMG" anymore!


One thing i notice, if I got a routine going on, consistently carving down, then it is alot easier to do them, but if at one point, say the slope is too steep, i got scared and hesitate, then it will take me a few skidded slow turns before I can get back into the routine, is that normal?


I am not sure if you've ever been to northstar, I used to be very afraid of blue runs, but I was able to ride all over the mountain wherever it says blue (except the parks!), and that opened up the entire mountain up to me! (about 70% are green/blues!) However, because this is a very beginner friendly slope, the green runs towards the lodge where all the traisl merge are extremely choppy.  It is throwing me around a little bit.  What's the best way to deal with this? I am keeping my lower body as noodle-esque as possible to absorb all the shock, but I'm wondering if there is anything else I can do?  I read somewhere that my board also does not handle chops very well at higher speed (i don't think i go all that fast, and I didn't think this would be an issue because I never knew i would be able to ever ride 'NOT SLOW"....)


another question (sorry for so many questions!!!), another thing that intimates me are those "caution" signs when you are approaching the end of a section, i dont' know how to describe it, but it basically make you do very very tight S turns around it, there are these long fences with several openings, but there are two rows of the, so after the first turn, you have to do another really tight turn right behind the first one.  I freak out everytime....I think i'm slightly better now that I know I can control my toe side around these damn fences, but I'm still not very confident, so sometimes I'll hestitate and bam. The few times that I fell was around these signs.  (Another time was right off the lift when a person fell 1 foot in front of me and I had no time to react...)


Thanks for all your help!

post #17 of 23


read the tech articles

watch the vids


post #18 of 23

Don't dip your shouder. keep your arms on the same plane as the slope. when you dip your shoulder you lose your edge

post #19 of 23



Thanks for the feedback. It's nice to know I'm not totally crazy all the time.


When you get scared and hesitate you do two things: stiffen up and lose your rhythm. This is natural. Remember "rise to start the turn, sink to finish." You need to reset to a low position (knees bent) so that you can "rise to start the turn". If you are stiff and in an up position, it's going to be hard to turn. Once you've already learned the movements, you only have to commit (be determined) to rising and bringing that board around. If it works on flatter terrain, you just need more movement on steeper terrain. But "I hope this works" isn't going to work as well as "I know this works".


If choppy snow means chopped up powder, there are two things to do: don't let the snow push you around (resist it) and get the board on edge to slice through the chop.


As for those "S" gates, go slower, use more vertical range of motion to help turn faster around the first gate and use your edge to traverse back to the second opening


go forward into the first "S", then ride switch to the exit.

O yeah and go slower - that's why those gates are there.




and remember one more thing....

She who hesitates is BAM!

post #20 of 23
Thread Starter 

Your posts always makes me laugh, Rusty!  I really appreciate that you take the time to help the newbie out!! You're absolutely spot on about being tense and stayed upright.  I can always remember to sink down when I'm transitioning from toe to heel (and yep, actually just slam my front heel down without the relaxing the front foot, but I still have my rear toe engaged because I'm still scare shit of eating it , as you know, catching heel edge on toe side means that worse bam ever), I feel the carve when I sit into my turn, love that feeling.  Toeside i can feel it sometimes, but not always, but I'm getting there!


yeah, choppy snow is just the chopped up powder, they throw me around quite a bit, but i've really not fallen because of that YET.


Is it safe to say that when I rise to bring the board around, that's when my board is torsionally flexed?  When I'm doing my toeside carve, I'm definately sinked in, bent knees (well, supposed to at least), then when I come out of the turn, i "twist" my board by engaging my heel edge while rear foot is still engaged with toe edge, this is when I'm standing taller, right? I then sink in again with both my heel engaged and carve through my heel turn..

post #21 of 23

Rising is independent of board twist. You can do both at the same time. You may do both automatically. But you don't have to.

post #22 of 23

At a lesson I had earlier this week, things really clicked for me when the instructor had me initiate turns either by pushing the leading knee forward (that is, along the axis of the front binding) for a toeside turn or outward (perpendicular to the front binding axis) for a heelside turn. I found that focusing on the knee movement caused my hips and shoulders to follow, setting up the edge turn; I'd follow up the knee action by weighting toes for toeside, heel for heelside. Does this technique sound like good form?


Rusty .... in another thread, you'd said there's 4 ways to make a snowboard turn...



-Pressure - whichever foot has the most weight is the one that wants to be going downhill more
-Rotary - you can rotate or scissor your feet and the direction a flat board is pointed will change
-Edging - putting the board on toe or heel edge will cause the board to start turning as it follows the shape of the sidecut
-Twist - starting edging movements with the front foot first will cause the board to start turning (this movement twists the board)


These are in ascending order of "difficulty," I'm guessing? Pressure makes sense, as does edging (body weight shift over one edge or other, yes?), and I think I get twisting ... that's one of the techniques talked of in this thread, where the front foot switches edges before the rear (although, to me that still seems prone to catching an edge!).


I don't get the "Rotary" technique, though ... how are you rotating your feet when both feet are strapped in tight? Unless, do you mean the feet are rotated around the board's longitudinal axis?



post #23 of 23



The board performances are meant to describe how a snowboard can turn. In my explanation of what the board can do to make turns happen, I inadvertently added what you can do to cause th board to perform in a certain way. My bad. There are multiple options available for each board performance and the movements you make should be kept in a separate discussion to avoid confusion. The performances are not ordered by difficulty or anything else.


To make board performance happen, we talk about two kinds of movement: rotary movements and flex/extend movements.  All of the board performances require some combination of body parts rotating, flexing and/or extending. Knee pointing is a form of rotary movement. It has it's fans in the instructor world. I think it is very helpful to some people and just another tool in the kit for others. The easiest way to practice rotating your feet is when you are riding the chair. There you can readily reorient the board by rotating your front foot. Rotary movement of a flat board will introduce skidding to a turn, but there are times where this is appropriate. Of course, if the whole idea is skidding (like a flat spin 360 on the snow), then it's absolutely necessary. If you rotate a board when it is flat, it will change it's orientation (direction), but you won't go anywhere because the edge is not engaged. But of course, you can rotate it, then edge it and away you go in the new direction. Or you can do just jam your back foot out, skid for a bit to slow down and then release like most of our terminal intermediate riders. Rotary movement of a board that is on edge will torque the nose of the board into the snow. This can be useful. For a toeside turn, using knee pointing, you would turn the front knee toward the back binding. But this has a tendency to encourage beginners to unweight the front foot, so some instructors choose to use knee pointing to encourage increasing the weight on the front foot for toe side turns, while using knee pointing for rotary purposes on heel side turns.


I'm sure that was as clear as mud, but that's all I got for now.

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