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core shot repairs

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 

I've been getting too much practice with this but I need some advice to make this go a little quicker. I hit a toaster sized rock covered by 2" of fresh the other day. It took out a chunk of base that looked like an Arby's curly fry. About 1/4" wide and 3" long. The skis are Fisher Progressor 9+'s. It was down to the glass under the base. I used some copolymer (metal grip) filler stick and my repair iron to bond to the base and used some hard ptex repair ribbon to fill on top of the copolymer. I then used a surform to shave the ptex close to the level of the base and then sanded it flat. I still had a couple of small low spots so I would use the iron and ribbon to fill the spot and do the process of cheese grater and sand to get it flat. I'm not sure if the little divot patches are pulling out or I'm just doing a crappy job but I can't seem to get rid of the little low spots. I'm thinking of using a softer ptex candle and iron to fill in the low spots so I can use a sharp scraper to shave it flat. Anybody got and tips or tricks? My goal is to get ith base filled and flat. I prefer to use the hardest filler I can to prevent the patch from dishing out but I'm not sure it's worth trying to do it all with ribbon.

post #2 of 5

The low spots can sometime be attributed to late warping of the filler from the iron.  What I tend to do is, like you say, use a softer ptex repair candle to do the finer work after making the heavy-duty plug.

post #3 of 5

Are you heating the area around the base repair before applying the metal grip and repair ribbon?


As much as we love to get the bases perfect, are the low spots a performance issue or not?

post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 



I warm the skis up in the house first and then warm the area around the repair with a hair dryer to make sure they're dry and warm. Then I used the metal grip with a repair iron to lay down a thin bonding layer on the exposed core material. Then I filled the majority of the hole with repair ribbon. I then used the cheese grater to cut the repair down close to the base but I don't think I had all of the repair area higher than the base. Melting the ribbon is a little tedious and I seem to have some small low areas. I repeated this a couple of times but the low spots still seem to show up. Is it a performance issue? I doubt it. More cosmetic than anything. I think I might just fill it with a little softer ptex and call it good for now. The ribbon is pretty hard stuff and I don't like being too aggressive with the cheese grater or I'll do more damage to the adjacent base material.

post #5 of 5

That's why I prefer/recommend that the surform/shaver/cheese grater is used to get the majority off and then finish with a sharp and stiff metal scraper, skiver, base planer and steel bar or the new SkiVisions base file planer.


Hopefully I can find an email discussion from Mark Sewell (SkiVisions and base repair ribbon supplier) and will post when and if I find it.....but I believe one thing he highly recommended when using the ribbon is to build up layers (rather than filling to the base on first pass) by using a little at a time and go through the tedium.


A local border ripped his board base at Silverton that would make yours look like a paper cut. I lined him out on this method and as far as I know, his 18" x 1/2" or so gash was holding well.


Another alternative for bigger gouges is a repair pistol.


Again, on some of the repairs are we wasting time trying to make them perfect, when really the performance will not be any better than if they are a little less than perfect?

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