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Setting Boot Length on Marker MX 12 Integrated Bindings?

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 

I am taking my new 09/10 K2 Apache Crossfires with Marker Mx 12 integrated bindings to my local ski shop this weekend to have the bindings mounted, skis waxed etc. I was looking at the bindings and they adjust for boot length in 10mm intervals. My boots are 358mm long which is between binding length intervals of 355mm and 365mm.


Does anyone know if which setting I should ask the shop to install the bindings at? Is there any advantage to rounding up vs rounding down? Based on how the binding seems to lock to the rails it looks like rounding up would move the boot further forward on the ski... and I am not sure if this is desirable for an intermediate skier still learning to carve?


358 is closer to 355 than 365 so am I correct in assuming the 355 setting would put the boot closest to the 'ideal' center of the ski?


Also is it bad if the shop adjusts the forward tension screw on the back of the binding with the boot clipped in?


I am sure the shop will have an opinion on the subject when I take the skis in but I would like to proactively educate myself aa bit first :)


Any help is appreciated.

post #2 of 18

I may be wrong about this but I believe that your boot will end up in the same place whether you start at the lower end or the higher end. Ultimately, the binding needs to be adjusted for your specific length and starting from larger or smaller will take you to the same place. The only difference will be which way the forward pressure screw needs to be turned (and yes, it is bad if the forward pressure screw is adjusted with the boot engaged in the binding -- it should be adjusted with the boot out of the binding). If you start further away from your actual boot length (i.e. 365), the screw will have to be turned a few more times to get the binding to be the right length. It may not matter, but it seems like you would want to start at the setting closest to your actual boot length. BTW, it should take the shop all of two minutes to set up your binding (and you could frankly do this yourself in about the same time as it seems like you already understand how the binding connects to the ski). The real value in having the shop do it is that they should also test the binding with your boot and make sure it is releasing with the appropriate amount of torque for your DIN setting.

post #3 of 18
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the info. The bindings lock at the rear into a fixed groove so increasing or decreasing the length of the binding will move the toe forward or backwards and I then have to move the rear piece of the binding on its track so it does alter the position of the boot on the ski. Having said that 358 is alot closer to 355 than 365 so I will start with that because it should be closer to a 'neutral' position on the ski (if my reasoning is correct).


The more research I do the more it looks pretty straightforward to mount the bindings. If I mount them myself do I need to pay to get them 'release checked' or is it enough to look up my din settings online and just dial it in myself? Even if a release check is required and it costs the same to have the shop check my work I enjoy figuring out how my equipment works so I will go ahead and mount them myself (I am the same with my bikes).


Also the tech I spoke to in the shop I was going to take them to said they need to be hot waxed a couple of times before use is that correct or can I ski them with whatever wax they put on them at the factory? The factory tune seems good to go, the contact surfaces are sharp and slightly less sharp (detuned?) at the tip and tail but seeing as that should never touch the snow in a carve I would imagine that doesnt matter?


Thanks again for the assistance!

post #4 of 18

I think you're right about the binding position. I just realized I have some instructions for that binding and it has a locking heel and floating toe. Once you lock the heel in your forward pressure adjustment will change where the heel is positioned, so your boot center will indeed end up in a different place with different "starting points." I don't have enough knowledge on the subject to advise as to whether the 1cm difference will affect your ski's performance or not -- this probably depends somewhat on the specific ski model and how finicky it is. The good thing is that you know how to adjust it, so it would not be difficult for you to try it in one position and then take the binding off, change the starting position, adjust the forward pressure screw and then ski it and see if you notice a difference. If the release check shows that your DIN setting with your boots is releasing at the appropriate torque levels, then you just need to make sure your forward pressure adjustment is set correctly after changing the start length. The screw adjustment for forward pressure on that binding is super easy to adjust. My wife has a women's version of that binding and I found that the hardest thing to do was to get the binding off the rail -- I had to use a rubber mallet.


I recommend getting the release check because the purpose of that is to make sure the binding is releasing appropriately for your DIN settings with your boots. Yes, you can change the DIN setting pretty easily yourself, but you need a shop with special tools to actually make sure the binding is working correctly.


There are tons of different opinions regarding waxing and tuning before skiing. Some people on this forum say ski them for a day and see how you like them (and let the first day take off the factory wax). Others say you need a full tune and multiple waxings before touching the snow. I've done both extremes. If you're just a recreational skier like me it may not matter all that much. Maybe try skiing them for a day and then take them in for a tune and see if you notice a difference. One thing to keep in mind, if you don't like how they ski on the first day you should give the skis a chance because the issues might be due to the tune. Get a high quality tune on them and give them another try before selling them. A bad factory or shop tune can make the skis perform poorly, especially if you're on hard snow.

post #5 of 18
Thread Starter 

Thanks for all the assistance.


I am having some trouble with the forward pressure adjustment. No matter what I do I cannot get the boot in the binding with the screw flush, it always stays proud. Im guessing this means that the binding is too far back but when I move the binding forward past the back of the boot I cannot get the darn boot in the binding... any advice? It seems like I am missing something. Maybe I will have to adjust the binding position withthe boot in after all?

post #6 of 18

Seems odd. If the forward pressure screw is sticking out beyond the housing when you engage the boot, then theoretically you should be able to pop the boot out, screw the forward pressure screw in a click or two further and put the boot back in. I assume this is what you are doing, but the forward pressure adjustment you made makes the toe and heel pieces too close together to get your boot in? The instruction booklet I have doesn't provide any insight on this issue and I don't know the internal mechanics of the binding enough to understand why you're having this problem. However, the instruction booklet clearly says to never adjust the forward pressure with the boot in the binding and I've read posts on this forum from people saying that you risk stripping the forward pressure adjustment mechanism if you adjust it with the boot engaged. Maybe try starting the binding length on the other side of your boot sole length and then twist the forward pressure screw the other direction to get it to the right length?

post #7 of 18
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the help. I will try again tomorrow. Thanks a TON or the advice regarding the adjustment of the screw with the boot in it. I will definitely NOT be doing that. If I cannot figure it out I will take it to the shop for advice...

post #8 of 18

any luck finding a manual or info on how to know the lenght is set properly? I have the same issue with the Marker MX 14.0 binding.

post #9 of 18
Thread Starter 

I ended up taking my skis and bindings to a local ski shop to set up in the end because I wanted a professional opinion on what the DIN setting should be and also wanted to have the bindings release tested to make sure the DIN as marked on the binding was accurate. Personally the $50 (or less) I spent was well worth it for the piece of mind it gave me. However, I did figure out how to install the bindings through talking to K2/ Marker and the Ski shop guys: Go with whatever measurement on the bindings which is closest to your boot measurement. In terms of the rear pressure adjustment screw, the key is the screw will only be flush once the boot is actually in the binding. The heel cup will actually move backwards up the screw as you put the boot in. Common wisdom seems to be not to just put the boot in and then adjust the screw to be flush as apparently this can damage the binding because of the friction with the plastic threads when the boot is in. Rather, start with the screw mostly unscrewed, insert the boot and take note of how far up the screw the heel cup moves when you do this, remove boot and adjust screw, re-insert boot, rinse, repeat etc. until when the boot is inserted the screw is flush. It does take a fair amount of pressure to actually get the boot in the binding especially when they are new. I ended up actually having to put the boots on and then use my body weight to get them into the binding, as you would do at the slopes. Hope that helps. Good luck.

post #10 of 18

Wow, this thread is so much friendlier than another thread where there was a similiar discussion already started.  I asked my question there and got support for my desire to learn and I was also called stupid an lazy in not so many words.  I really appreciate the response.  Based on some research on TGR (that someone else mentioned I should try in the other thread) I was thinking the correct answer was the screw flush.  However there were enough generic answers to what I found for me not to be sure.  I may still stop by a shop myself just to be sure but will adjust it first accodingly.  It is too bad we can't find a scan for one of these binding manuals and read the manufacturers directions ourself. 


Thanks, have a great day.

post #11 of 18

I apologize for not being more clear in my initial posts. I believe it is true for all forward pressure adjusters that the marked/designed place they are supposed to be in is with the boot in the binding. In the case of the Markers with a screw that is supposed to be flush with the housing, it is supposed to be flush only when the boot is in the binding.

post #12 of 18

I know this is an old thread but hope someone knows the answer. My boot sole length is 300 and there is a 295 and a 305 marking on the bottom of my Marker MX 12.0 bindings. Since my BSL is right in the middle, what number should I use? 


Thanks in advance.

post #13 of 18
Originally Posted by Valuablez View Post

I know this is an old thread but hope someone knows the answer. My boot sole length is 300 and there is a 295 and a 305 marking on the bottom of my Marker MX 12.0 bindings. Since my BSL is right in the middle, what number should I use? 

Thanks in advance.
While your boots "say" 300mm they might be off a few. I would start with the 295 settings and put in the boots them check forward pressure. If it is too too tight move the toes up to the 305mm mark then test again.
Since you are asking a pretty basic binding question it sounds like you have a lower level of comfort in adjusting the bindings and since these bindings will be holding you in at speeds up to 40mph or so, I would suggest you bring them into a shop to have them done correctly.
post #14 of 18
Okay this seemed like a good thread to ask this question in.

I have K2 Rictor 2011/12 model with Marker Mx bindings. I bought the 181cm model as was advised this was the correct length for my height and weight 6'2 and 16 stone.

I have skied it for 2 seasons and have struggled with it, i feel like i aam always in the back seat and traditionally i have never had problems getting forward on my skis. So I started doing some research and found an interesting article regarding the difference even 1cm can make in terms of binding placement. This got me thinking. While I am 6'2 I have small feet (keep all manhood jokes to a minimum please smile.gif ) I am in a mondo 28.5 boot. The sole length of which is 328mm, I have binding set at 325 as that was nearest. Now average mondo size for someone my height is 30-31 which for my boot has a BSl of 348-358 somewhere between 2cm and 3 cm difference. As i understand these bindings and from the comments from the thread above that would mean that if I had bigger feet I would be further forward on the ski.

So 2 questions

1) Firstly is my reasoning correct do you think the binding position on skis is designed with the average height and therefore accosiated average bsl of the user in mind and this would make a difference.

2) I am planning on changing the boot size anyway to see if it improves performance, I will be moving it on the binding rail from 325 to 335 or even 345 to effectively move the boot forward, will the heel track have enough play in it to screw up to the boot if I do this and will the binding be safe if I do this or will I adversely affect forward pressure. I understand that if the screw is not flush when I try this then I will have to give up, but I am worried there could be a situation where the screw is flush, but something internally is at the limit of its play etc and could be causing an issue. How would I test this, or would I need to take it to a shop. My ski's are kept in resort where we have a apt so I cannot sort this till I am on the snow without incurring an air fare.

Appreciate anyone help and for reading war and peace above.
post #15 of 18

Sorry but BUMP

post #16 of 18

I can't help you with your binding question but I can tell you that if your boots fit now going to a larger size boot will definitely make performance much worse and certainly won't get you out of the back seat. 

post #17 of 18

Does the toe piece wiggle on the rail for anyone else? It's not significant (1mm or less) but it's there.

post #18 of 18

wiggles a little with no boot in. Forward pressure from the boot seems to lock it.

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