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Remounting bindings into previously filled holes

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

I had a shop mount my new skis where I thought I would like it but I found it felt like it was too far forward so I asked them to remount‬‬ them 5 cm back. I have now realized that they were probably fine where they were and its just my technique that was the problem and not the mounting position.

I want to move the bindings back to the original mount and would like to do it myself if possible. I figured it would be harder to screw it up since the holes are already there.

My question is, can I reuse the old holes even though they were already filled in and also, what's the best way to ensure they stay in?

Should I attempt this myself even if I have never mounted bindings myself before or am I just asking for trouble? 

post #2 of 6

What were the original holes filled in with? Are they metal requiring tapping or not? How handy are you at drilling out the assumed plugs? It's really pretty easy if you are familiar with drills and control. There should be an indicator of drill bit to use.

post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post

What were the original holes filled in with? Are they metal requiring tapping or not? How handy are you at drilling out the assumed plugs? It's really pretty easy if you are familiar with drills and control. There should be an indicator of drill bit to use.


Not sure what they were filled with, looks like something perfectly round so I'm guessing some kind of plug? Are you asking if there's metal in the skis or metal in what they were filled with? There is no metal in the skis at least, not sure about the plugs.

 

I've never drilled out any plugs so I'm not sure how to do it? Do you just use a regular drill bit? I've read that a 3.6mm drill bit is what you're supposed to use when mounting bindings.

 

From what I've read, here's a quick guess at what I'm supposed to do:

 

1. Drill a hole using a 3.6mm drill bit down to the appropriate length based on the length of mounting screws.

 

2. Flatten the surface in case it "volcanoed"

 

3. Tap the hole? Not sure if this is necessary or not.

 

4. Line the hole with epoxy (not the quick drying kind.)

 

5. Screw in the bindings.

 

Does this sound correct?

post #4 of 6

 

Quote:
 
  *  The general rule on drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
    * By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions.
    * The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
    * Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
    * The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.

 

What size is called for on your skis?

 

Typically, if you drill through metal, tapping is a good a idea. Others tap no matter what. If in doubt as to whether or not there is metal, drill with 3.5 and redrill with a 4.1mm drill bit if you discover metal.

 

Epoxy is not recommended by some and is by others. Binding sealant/glue's purpose is to keep water out of the hole not to hold the screws as some expect the epoxy to do.

 

I don't expect you'll have volcano issues if redrilling holes, but the step drill bit or counter sink may be desirable to clean up the top of the hole.

 

HTH

post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post

 

Quote:
 
  *  The general rule on drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
    * By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions.
    * The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
    * Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
    * The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.

 

What size is called for on your skis?

 

Typically, if you drill through metal, tapping is a good a idea. Others tap no matter what. If in doubt as to whether or not there is metal, drill with 3.5 and redrill with a 4.1mm drill bit if you discover metal.

 

Epoxy is not recommended by some and is by others. Binding sealant/glue's purpose is to keep water out of the hole not to hold the screws as some expect the epoxy to do.

 

I don't expect you'll have volcano issues if redrilling holes, but the step drill bit or counter sink may be desirable to clean up the top of the hole.

 

HTH


I can't seem to find any indicator on my skis as to what drill bit to use. It sounds like I'm a bit in over my head and the skis are too expensive to screw up so I'm just going to take it to the shop to have them do it and maybe ask to watch, for next time.

 

Thanks for the replies!

post #6 of 6

Personally, I'd never re-use plugged holes.  Period.

1.5 cm fore or aft is not that much.  The last thing I want to happen is have a binding rip out. 

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