i'm 5' 8"
size 10.5 or 11 boot
what's the easiest/smallest/slowest board for park and slope onsnow packed almost like ice? what legnth and what width without heel or toes hanging over?
There are a lot of factors in play here. The first thing is you need to decide whether you want a freeride (directional - better for on slope)) or freestyle (center mount - better for park) board. What's most important? Next you need to decide budget. Park boards generally (ahem) "wear out" faster (not because of the board, but because of the abuse). It's really hard not to laugh in people's faces when they ask me how to fix the dented edges on their gear. You may just want to get a used board where size and price are going to be the primary selection factors. Shorter boards are easier to do tricks with and slower than longer boards. The shortest you could go with would be a snow skate.(70-80 cm?) (no bindings - it's an snow version of a skateboard). But for on slope riding I would not go any lower than 140cm for your height+weight. Of course, the shorter you go, the narrower the board is going to tend to be. But how much width you need will depend on your stance angles and if you want to use risers and how much on slope carving you plan on doing. If your typical on snow surface consistency is almost like ice, you are probably not going to be doing high edge angle carving where the slightest bit over hang will cause boot out. If you're going with zero-zero stance angles you'll want a wider board. The more aggressive you go on stance agles, the more your boots will fit onto a narrower board. My bet is that you'll be better off to find a board in the length and flex you want and then add a riser plate underneath the binding if your feet hang over.
Wanting a slow snowboard makes me nervous. Most people find that a faster snowboard is easier to ride. Now if you really want a slow snowboard, just wipe some base cleaner over the base to remove some wax and then don't ever wax it. Then ride some rails and boxes to wear down the base and rough up the edges (or better yet ride a magic carpet and slide your board back and forth on it with your weight on it) and your board will be ugly slow. Even better, run a hair dryer over the base for a couple minutes before you go out on snow and you're likely to end with an inch or so of snow stuck to the base. With any luck that will slow the board enough to let you point the board straight down a black run and not move an inch.
you say shorter boards are easier to do tricks and are slower, but some others on antoher forum said that longer means slower cause more surface area. anyway if i get a 140 or 150 that's only like 4 inches so not such a big deal. I'm just looking for a width number for size 11 boot that will in any conditions (deep powder or icey) not catch the toes or heel. i want to avoid risers as they are another part to fiddle with/break etc. what's the affect of a very wide board, alomst too wide, so i can't catch the boots' heel or toe? I'm getting this off ebay or craigslist cheap, so not a big deal that i should make sure everything's 100% final and somethign i will grow into when i progress skill.
so yeah basically, what width for 11" boot with back foot at no angle with plenty of extra board so i can't catch the boot heel/toe. thanks
You can't believe everything you read on the Internet can you? Do you want me to explain the physics of why longer boards are faster or are my credentials as a certified instructor and back up from other posters on this forum enough to let you believe I know what I'm talking about?
An 11 inch foot is almost 280 mm. Compare that to the specs for waist width you find online for new boards. The width at the heel binding is going to be slightly wider, but less than the extra width of the boot thickness so you get a little extra width from the binding point being behind the narrowest part of the board, but it's not enough. My foot is 10 inches long. My boots run from 11 1/2 to twelve inches long. The widest board I have at home is 10.5 inches across at the heel binding (which runs a 1/4 to 1/2 inch more than the narrowest point of the board. The narrowest board I've owned is 10" across, but all are in the 159 to 168 cm range in length. With these boards I have not had a problem booting out, but I have been able to boot out on purpose only on courderoy type conditions and only when trying very hard to get on a high edge angle. Note that I generally ride at between a 6 and 15 degree stance angle on both feet (either plus or minus on th back foot - I'm currently riding a duck stance). Shorter boards are going to be narrower at the waist and more of a problem. For example, the Burton Custom X Wide model has a waist width of 261mm for a 164cm long board, while the 152cm long model has a 244mm width. Remember that we already have built in "risers" with the thickness of the board and the binding platform itself. So you don't get toe drag until the edge angles you get overcome the buit in rise. A little lift goes a long way. Not many riders achieve 90 degree edge angles. If toe drag is a problem, risers are the easy solution to this problem (compared to getting a wider board) and the ones I've seen were very sturdy (- not a problem to worry about). Most folks just tweak their stance angles a bit and try again.
In general, wider boards are going to be a little slower when transitioning from edge to edge, but most people can't tell the difference. "Wide" boards (where "wide" is part of the model - intended for people with large feet) tend to be stiffer boards than their normal variations (e.g. Burton Custom). If you don't have the mass/strength combination to handle a stiffer board, you will definitely notice that difference a lot more than the transition from edge to edge because a board that is too stiff for you feels like you are riding on a two by four. I'm 5' 10" 230 and my pro buddies give me a ton of grief for riding too stiff a board. You're feet are big for your size, but your weight isn't.
It would be nice if I could just tell you to get a Burton Custom X wide 152cm board and then let you go shopping. But like I said, there a lot of factors in play. My recommendation is to shop the length (relatively longer for cruising and softer snow, relatively shorter for harder snow and doing tricks) and flex (softer for slower low angle riding/park, stiffer for higher speed cruising on firmer snow) board at the price you want, ride it, then tweak stance angles and/or risers until boot out is not a problem.
All you need ia a cheep extruded base board. These are also referred to as "low maintenance bases". Don't spend a bunch of money until you know what you are doing, and riding more than a few day per season. Burton makes some good cheep boards. As for size don't worry about width so much. Most snow boards are wide enough. 150 to 165? Good luck!