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ski holding its line

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

I recently had my skis tuned, and it seems like they are not finishing there turn like they were in the past. Could this be that they did not detuned the edges? Any other idea what it could be?

post #2 of 17

You really need to be more descriptive and specific about the symptoms.


But my 1st impression is if they were not detunned that would have more of a tendency to finish the turn more then if they were detuned.


If the tails are not sharp, they would skid rather then carve. Hence less finish to the turn.  


could be detuned too much or have too much base bevel in the tail.


What base edge and side edge angles did you request?

post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 

I did not specify a base edge or side edge angle. What would your suggestion be for that? Basically the ski feels like it is hard to initiate and finish my carve. The ski seems to want to keep on the course it is set out on

post #4 of 17


post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 

How else can i describe it? it feel like it does not want to initiate or finish its turn, that really is the only way i can describe it. it is a fischer misfit, same as the old atua

post #6 of 17

Sounds like an inconsistent base bevel. A similar issue is why I started tuning my own.

post #7 of 17

Sounds like a hanging burr!


You should have asked for a 1 degree base bevel and a 2 or 3 degree side edge.


Very often inexperienced ship employees either don't know about this or are too busy to bother or smoked

too much weed and forgot!drool.gif  th_dunno-1[1].gif



Now to remove the hanging burr. Place your skis (prefereabley in a ski vise) side edge up base away from you. Place an arkansas stone or true hardstone or surgical stone flat against the base edge with about 1/4 of the stone up above the side edge making sure the stone is completetly flat against the base edge. (BY the way do not ever diamond stone or file your base edge once your initial base edge angle is set. All future edge work is only done on the side edge)


 Use your thumb as a kind of guide on the top (sidewall of the ski, remember it is side edge up) Now with medium pressure polish the edge with the stone from tip to tail. You should be able to hear the edge smoothing out. You do not need a bevel tool to do this. Do all four edges paying particular attention to the tip and tail contact areas. Now take a gummi stone and with absolutley no pressure (NONE) run the gummi at a 45 degree angle to the edge point and I mean gingerly from tip to tail.


anytime you do any diamond stoning or polishing or filing of your side edge the above should be your final 2 steps!


post #8 of 17

I would guess that if TFull did not know his base or side bevels, he is probably not set up to remove a burr by freehanding a stone. By the way, if you have proper tools, e.g. SVST base tool (called something like the Final Cut), I have had no problem sharpening the base bevel. I also prefer to use the base bevel guide for removing the burr with stones rather than doing it freehand.

post #9 of 17

Not really true. All you need is a $10 stone and a $5 gummi. You need no tools. There is absolutley no reason to use a base bevel tool that costs $70.00.


You are not filing the edge nor changing the base bevel. It is very easy to put a fkat smooth hardstone flat against the base edge without distrubing your bevel angle.


In my earlier post I said you polish the base edge but in reality you just run the stone flat a gainst thew base edge a couple of time being sure it is perfectly flat against the base edge. Just do not roll it over the edge and ruin your shrpness., It is very easy to run the hardstone flat against thebase edge.


The hanging burr is a near microscopic curl of steel that is created anytime filing or stoning is done on the side edge.


It is called hanging because if your ski is base down, it hans donw into the snow from the side edge minutely belwo the base edge. this tiny curl of steel digs down into the snow and makes your ski very unpredictable. they will not roll smoothly onto edge and once there will not roll off and want to continue to go straight and als are very difficult to skid or sideslip.


Again you needn't know your bevel angles to this simple procedure.

post #10 of 17

I hadn't said you need a base edge guide, I said I preferred to use one. It takes the chance of dulling the edge out of the equation entirely.

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 

Anyway back to my question. I am planning on brining them to a shop to get tuned again. Any suggeestion on base level and side edge? Is there anything else i should make clear to the tuner? thanks for the help everyone

post #12 of 17

1 base/ 2 side edge (If you want better edge hold on groomed snow with no downside nor detriment in soft snow ask for a 1 base and 3 degree side edge.


Tell them your skis are grabby and not engaging smoothly nor realeasing smoothly.


Ask them if they knock off the hanging burr as part of their tune.


You want a true consistent 1 degree base bevel.

post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 

Thanks atomicman

post #14 of 17
Thread Starter 

Is there any down fall to gettting my skis tuned often? I just got these skis edged 3 ski days ago

post #15 of 17

I hope you get your boards fixed. Nothing more miserable then havung your ski funky!


You don't want to do a full tune  (Stone grind or and only just after a stone grind touch your base edge bevel) but once per season, unless you sustain really bad damage to the base and /or base edge.


I diamond stone and polsih my side edges (and remove the hanging burr) every time i ski. But if you are skiing mostly soft snow with the occasional hard pack. every maybe 3 ski days is good or when you feel you are not getting the edge grip you'd like!


In the case of your current predicament with your skis, you need to take them back to the shop that did them. Talk to thier best tuner (ask who is really experienced and knowedgable) and expalin what the skis are doing. It may be just a matter of adding a bit of base bevel by hand in the tip and tail or just knocking the hangin burr off. Whoever inspects them should look at them with a tru-barflat across the base and also dragg ther fingernail against the base edge  to try and determine what is going on. The more info/feedback on the symptoms you give them the better the outcome should be!

post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 

Anyone have any idea where i can find the manufactuer settings fo the base and side edge? I was very happy with the tune straight from the factory

post #17 of 17

Most likely a 1 base edge 2 side edge.  But that really does not matter. Your problem is not the angles that they used, the problem is you got an inconsistent or poor tune.



What sort of terrain do you ski most of the time?


I have a pair of Head MOJO 94, similar dimensions to the Misfit and I have a 1 & 3 on them. Transformed the ski. Still great on the steep & deep but now carves like a race ski on the groomed!

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