EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Base Edge Damage Immediately Following Full Tune
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Base Edge Damage Immediately Following Full Tune

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 

I had a full tune including stone grind, ptex, and edge sharpening at a local shop in December.  That likely corrected some but not all of this season's base edge damage from rocks.   Then I skied three consecutive days on them and suffered a pretty big rock hit from skiing powder covered rock.


My Mantras show visible burrs and other unevenness on the base edges from the several encounters with rocks.  Worst section is directly underfoot.  Side edges have been cleaned up satisfactorily with a 2 degree guide, moonflex diamond stones and stone kit.  I don't have a 1 degree base bevel guide.  


I freehanded the roughest part of the base damage with the 100 grit moonflex but then decided to be more cautious.


I note my GF's newer skis show a sharper edge than mine with the beat up base edges as tested with a fingernail.


My bases look mostly true as tested with a true bar and flash light.  My bases are otherwise in good shape with good structure and no major ptex work needed.


What are my best options?

post #2 of 6

A picture or two would help people know exactly how much damage you have, but your two options would be another base grind aggressive enough to get rid of the damage on the edges and then reset the edge angle.  Or  


If that would process would cause to much damage to the entire ski you'd have to think about either getting a section of the edge replaced by a shop, unless you're willing to tackle that yourself, or to replace the ski.

post #3 of 6

I'm guessing your base edges are nicked (have 'innies') versus burrs ('outties'), correct? To remove nicks on the base edge you need to remove base and edge material. Obviously, if we did that for every edge nick, we'd burn through skis too quickly.


Is this a true performance issue, aesthetics or psychological? This depends on personal preferences, type of skis and predominant snow conditions. To minimize material removal, time and expense, sometimes you need to judge if it's simply best to smooth out the nicks and deal with them after you get past an acceptable point. Especially if you are expecting more damage due to conditions and terrain skied. On one pair of my skis, the base edges are nicked and undesirable and I hate it, but I really cannot say they do in fact affect my skiing, so material removal at the moment is not a priority to make them pristine. YMMV


If you feel the edge is not sharp enough after tuning, make sure the side wall is not obstructing the cutting of the edge. Sometimes you do need to pull out a bastard/coarse or 2nd cut/smooth file for some more aggressive side edge cutting. Don't over bevel the base edge to remove nicks.

post #4 of 6

I usually just tape the base, if it is in good shape, to protect the base from tools. I skip the tape if I'm working on skis that I tend to beat. Then I use a stone and/or a gummi to work out some of the sharpness of innies. Outies of course, come off with the same treatment. Just work the affected areas and accept a compromise between a perfect base bevel and something that is smooth.


Another way I handle this is to buy skis used so that a) I don't suffer the 'first ding' syndrome and b) I don't mind so much that the skis get abused as I rarely pay more than a couple hundred bucks for skis, usually $100 or less.

post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 

I suppose these could be best described as innies.  I'm fairly sure I know how I got the damage: turning a top a powder-covered boulder, right in the center of both skis.  I then turned again, hitting the uphill edges a second time for good measure.  I'll post a picture if I can make a decent shot of the damage.


In the end, I'm sure the damage is more cosmetic that anything else.  A base grind in due course is probably in order.


I am thankful for the points raised above.  Having only recently started doing any tuning, it is very helpful to know the limits of the art.


Side note: I got the Swix tape recently and had a bunch of trouble working with the first sections of the tape off the roll.  It would simply tear as I stretched it out to cover the ski.  After wasting a bunch figuring this out, I tried again to use the Swix tape to cover my bindings during a waxing.  This worked much better, no tears. 


Is the outside of the roll of tape simply a bit more fragile?



These are powder skis we're talking about after all.  Ski powder!

post #6 of 6

Powder skis don't need edges. ;-) Just smooth them out so you don't hurt yourself on jaggies or have drag.


I use painters tape. I actually reuse it many times as there is less and less residue each time. When it doesn't stick, I get some fresh. Its the Yankee in me, I guess.

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