Stowe

my wife and i skiied two days at stowe over valentine's day weekend (sunday and monday) this year and we had such a great time.  it was a bit of a haul for us (we live near philadelphia), but it was well worth the drive. 

lodging - we stayed at the green mountain inn, which offered *very* reasonable ski and stay rates.  the accommodations were very nice and the food there was excellent.  we drove up to the mountain instead of using the free shuttle. 

mountain -  we got there around 10 am each day and parked in the spruce peak parking lot.  the free lockers at the spruce peak base lodge were very convenient and a welcomed suprise (i was expecting to pay an arm and a leg for one).  typically, we started at spruce peak for a warm-up run and then spent the rest of the day on mansfield. the snow quality was great, although there were a couple icy patches here and there....but nothing to get excited about. we skiied mostly the blue runs and portions of black runs hayride and chin clip (we didn't hit any of the terrain parks).  sunday was more crowded than monday, but even still, the longest we had to wait for a lift was 8-10 minutes (at the gondola). monday, it seemed, that we had the whole mountain to ourself...it was just fabulous.  one complaint we did have was the lift layout.  the over easy gondola had easy access to the main gondola, but it was a bit of a hike to the fourrunner quad. 

food - the on-mountain food there was OK, a little pricey...but all ski areas have pricey food, so it was on par.  the town has plenty of options for apres ski.

weather - it snowed a little bit every day we were there.  it didn't get too cold (fortunately), but our second day skiing was a bit warm (45 degress!).  the day we left they had got 4-6 inches of freshies  :\  (sigh)....

staff - the mountain staff was great.  we had a couple of issues that got quickly resolved. each time the staff was gracious and very understanding.  no complaints from us!

overall - for our money, stowe was a good value.  the shear amount and quality of the terrain and the snow quality was worth every penny spent.  we just wish we lived a little closer ;)

Stowe Mountain Resort has got to be on any serious eastern skiers list of best skier’s mountains. First off there is Mt. Mansfield’s 2,160 feet of continuous vertical drop that is accessed by what I think is the most efficient use of a  detachable quad anywhere. That would be the Four Runner Quad. From the top you can ski any type of terrain you please and you will be on your skis a long time before you get to the bottom. This is Eastern big mountain skiing at its best. Not only do you have the venerable Front Four like Starr, a mile drop that begins at 37*  and mellows to 34*, you also have the 2 ½ mile beginners Toll Road .  The 9000 foot long Lord is an intermediate’s dream cruise that hugs the contours of the mountain  as it rolls and unfold beneath you for over 2,000 vertical feet to the valley.

You can also ski the best expert cruiser around and one of the East's oldest trails, Nose Dive, cut in the pre-ski lift 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Crops. At the top head straight out to the AMC’s Stone Hut. Ski by and say hello to the lucky chosen that are staying there and continue to Nose Dive. The top of the trail is a series of switchbacks across the steep peak until it begins to open on a sweet expert pitched cruise. After the last switchback keep to skiers left and see the first gladed run ever cut in the US. Dubbed Slalom Glade in 1940, it was designed by Charlie Lord and Ab Coleman in the late 1930’s just before the original single chairlift was installed.

Of course there are the rest of the Front Four. Steep, wide National would be the toughest run on most mountains with Lift Line from the top would be a contender too but Goat makes them all seem kind of easy. There is the Front Four’s red headed step child, Lookout and the steep, tight Lookout Glades. In between are more intermediates runs, tree shots, bump runs and terrain parks.

Enough terrain for most mountains but as the late night TV huckster proclaims….Wait there’s more: a high speed Gondola that whisks skier up a different 2,000+ vertical pitch and offers up gems like Perry Merrill, Gondolier and Chin Clip. But wait there’s more, another Gondola to take you across the highway to Spruce Peak, a sunny nearly 1900 vertical feet expanse of its own. Here you will find the latest over night accommodations and complete skier service.

As mentioned above, the Nose Dive Glade is the first glade cut in the US. Rumor has it that great off piste adventures can be had with a hike or a bushwhack or advice from a friendly native.

Stowe is perhaps the most classic New England skiing experience available. The town of Stowe is lovely. It has numerous fine shops and restaurants. (We like the Mexican place on the Mountain Road as well as the Malt Shop in town.) There are lots of hotels and motels although not many fit a budget category and the expensive outweigh the moderate.

The mountain itself is completely classic with the type of steep winding tree lined trails that define New England skiing. The front four tend to be bumped and can be icy providing a challenge to any skier, Perry Merrill and Gondalier are great cruising trails served by the gondola.

There has been a major real estate development creating a massive hotel right at the base. It will be interesting to see if it affects the ambiance of the place over time. Also, Stowe is (or at least had been) owned by AIG, the insurance giant that was a major bailout recipient. It is likely AIG will sell the asset which could also affect Stowe's future.

The major downside for Stowe is that it is very expensive - lift tickets are high and not many deals are available (at least I haven't found them). The costs keep me from visiting as often as I would like because it is one of the truly great eastern resort experiences.