Unofficial Guide to Skiing Mount Baker

Mount Baker from the top of Panorama "Pan" Dome

You will see these stickers on beat up Subarus, ratty pickups, and cargo boxes. It's the locals' (not so) secret indication for the Mt. Baker Ski Area. It's located at the eastern terminus of Washington's SR 542. We're a long way from nearly everywhere, and we like it that way.
The legends of Baker's massive snowfall are true, we have the most in North America if not the world. Those who love to ski new snow and crud on challenging terrain will have a blast here. Those looking for extensive groomed intermediate and beginner terrain would be happier elsewhere.
If you're planning on visiting Mt. Baker Ski Area for the first time come prepared for a "local" experience since this place is designed and run as a regional ski area for day trippers, not a resort.

White Salmon Lodge has a great view of Mt. Shuksan
What follows are a few tips for first time visitors:
#1. Ski With a Local Guide If You Can:
While it's perfectly possible to learn the mountain on your own, you'll have more fun faster by having a guide at first. The layout of Mt. Baker is confusing to newcomers. There are multiple faces on two different hills (Pan Dome and Shuksan Arm) and the lift system seems to be random at first impression. There is even a place where one lift crosses over another at a right angle. The three lodges (White Salmon, Heather Meadows, and Raven Hut) are on different parts of the hill, each making up its own base area.

If you do not pay attention to these warnings you could end up dead, and some have. However, there are many legitimate runs past these signs, so be aware and ask a local if you don't know where you are headed, otherwise you'll miss out on some of the best skiing in the area.
There are many cliffs within the boundaries that are evident from below, but not so much from above. While the lethal ones are well marked, there are others that could get you into trouble if you are not careful. If you don't know where you're going don't go there! Even following someone else's tracks into an unknown area isn't such a great idea unless you are a ski god. You could end up on top of a cliff with a long hike back out through snow that's chest deep. Having a local guide can help keep this from happening.
#2. Watch Out For Tree Wells:
There are lots of trees at Baker many of which can form wells, and the large amount of snow that falls keeps creating them. A few years ago a boarder disappeared inbounds, nobody could find him. His body turned up the next summer after the snow had melted. He had gone into the inbounds trees right off of the groomed run and fallen into a tree well. Nasty stuff.
#3. Best Runs:
If you like blacks and double blacks check out the following runs first to acquaint yourself with the ski area layout. There are multiple ways down most of these runs and each way is unique. There is little in the way of long, open, continuous fall line skiing. You need to be ready to change it up frequently.
Check the trail map for the location of these main runs. There is no grooming on any of them except Austin and Canyon.

All of the runs I'm mentioning, except for Gabl's, come off of Pan Dome on the right of this map.
For a PDF map that shows better detail click here:
http://www.mtbaker.us/files/9813/5154/8020/MtBaker_TM_2012_13.pdf
Austin - The only blue run among these, there is only a little of it groomed (you can just make it out in the picture below), the rest is left alone.
Pan Face - Longer and more open than others, this run often has better snow than many other places. It's bumped up most of the time. The bumps disappear from time to time when big dumps come in, but they re-form very quickly.

Pan Face looking toward Austin and Mt. Baker
The Chute - Watch out for low early season coverage, ride Chair 1 first to check it out. Narrow and steep in the actual chute, the approach is wide open rolling hills of pow.

Looking up The Chute from Chair 1 in early season

Just above The Chute looking toward the top of Pan Dome
Canyon - Gunner's Bowl is the entry, which has some wonderful terrain. Then you get to ski the Canyon, a narrow groomed cat track that drops down between cliffs. Often icy and crappy, it can sometimes wring out all of the elation you had at the top. It's often closed because of avalanche danger. DON'T EVEN THINK about going down there when closed.

The Canyon Entrance
Sticky Wicket (not shown on some maps)- Head toward North Face and take a right after the entrance to The Canyon. Not a trail, so just work your way down through open areas and widely spaced, huge trees.

Pan Dome with Gunners' Bowl (left) and Sticky Wicket (center to right). Mt. Herman in background.
Canuck's Deluxe - Open eastern exposure gives morning sun and first corn in spring. Bumped up after a few days of no/low snowfall, it is a first target for many on a powder frenzy day.
North Face - Bumps, good snow when Sticky, Canuk's and Honkers are iffy from too much sun. This run leads to:
Honkers - Bumps and the same eastern exposure as Canuk's. There are two sections of this run, Upper and Lower Honkers which are divided by a cat track. Be aware of often heavy traffic on the road when exiting Upper Honkers. Before committing to Lower Honkers make sure you study the snow. This section is often very different than the upper part and it can be really awful, i.e. heavy, ice chunks, icy bumps, crusty, slushy, etc.
Gabl's - (say "gobbles") Directly under Chair 5. Steep, constantly changing, most vertical on one run in the ski area. It often has good snow, but the bottom has icy patches quite a bit of the time. If you don't go straight down the middle of the run you can often miss these.
With the exception of Gabl's all of the above mentioned runs are accessed from the top of Pan Dome (Chairs 6 and 1). I have left out most of the terrain on Shuksan Arm (Chairs 7, 5 & 8). These runs are intermediate groomers and low angle off piste which can be fun, but are also quite crowded at times, especially on weekends. If there aren't too many careening bodies it can be fun to mess around on this side of the hill. Just go wherever your skis take you.

Shuksan Arm inbounds area, serviced by Chairs 5 and 8. The Natural Half Pipe, site of the Legendary Banked Slalom, is visible in the upper center of the picture.
#4. Aspects and Snow Quality:
Elevation often makes a huge difference in snow quality. The base at White Salmon is a mere 3500', which means it often has heavy snow or even rain. The top of the ski area is at only about 5000' but it often has great quality snow. What to do if it's like this? Ski Chair 1. Heather Meadows at the base of Chair 1 is at about 4200' and the slope aspect is northerly so you can get higher quality snow, sometimes dramatically so. Another possibility is to ski North Face to the top of Honkers and just blast the groomer cat track to the bottom, lapping the upper mountain sweetness and ignoring the bottom garbage. A third option is to suck it up and ski the junk along with the sublime. In any event, the snow on Chair 1 (Pan Face, The Chute, North Face) and on Gabl's is often of better quality than on the rest of the mountain due to their shaded exposure.

North Face
#5. Powder:
Yes. Mt. Baker gets LOTS of new snow. Some of it is powder snow, some not so much. The locals whoop and holler over snow that folks in Colorado would look at as a disaster. To really ski this mountain you have to learn to love it all. One day during the 2011 season we had about 8" of champagne pow and the consensus on the chairlift was that it was too light and didn't give enough float. We wanted our dense stuff back.

Picture taken in 2011, the signpost is about 20 feet tall.
#6. Vistas:
Mt. Baker has some of the most amazing views anywhere on the planet. The ski area is snuggled up against North Cascades National Park and the Mt. Baker Wilderness. It takes your breath away on a bluebird day (yes, we have them) to see Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, and dozens of other North Cascades peaks in every direction. These are not far vistas, but in-your-face views. The mountains here blast up out of the narrow valleys so close that you can count the individual trees on them, if they have trees. Glaciers abound. Bring your camera.

Top of Chair 5 with Shuksan Arm behind
#7. Food:
The ski area has the only food concession on the mountain, and it is good basic fare at reasonable prices. There is a cafeteria at each day lodge and there is a café on the hill called the "Raven Hut," my favorite.

Raven Hut from Gabl's
#8. Lodging:
Again, this is a day area. There are no overnight accommodations at the ski area. There is lodging 17 miles away in Glacier. There are four rooms at the Blue T Lodge (brand new, no reviews so far) and at private condos, cabins, or B & Bs in town, so reservations are required. For other hotels/motels you have to drive 55 miles to Bellingham.
#9. Nightlife:
Mt. Baker skiers usually go to bed early or make their own parties, but because of the university in town there is a lot of action in Bellingham. There is some good food along the Mt. Baker Highway (SR 542) at places like Chair 9 Pizza and Milano's in Glacier, and great beer at the North Fork Brewery which is also a pizzeria, beer shrine, and wedding chapel.
#10. Shopping:
As long as you're looking for a spare pair of gloves or new goggles you have a good selection at the ski area. Glacier has a small convenience store, a ski shop, and a board shop. Anything else requires a drive to Bellingham.

Mt. Herman OB
#11. Back Country:
The Mt. Baker back country is famous for a good reason. There is an almost unlimited supply of deep snow available for the investment of a relatively short hike. The avalanche danger is definitely there to be faced, and this guide will not attempt to give advice on where or when to go. If you're interested in taking on this challenge make sure you have done your homework, have the right equipment and training, ski with others, and use appropriate precautions. Many skiers have lost their lives out there, don't add to the total.

Starting area for the Legendary Banked Slalom (top of Chair 5)
#12. The Legendary Banked Slalom:
Each year in late January or early February a snowboarding race called the Legendary Banked Slalom is held at Baker. This race is famous the world over among snowboard racers and draws an impressive international crowd with many Olympic athletes, including medalists. With no cash rewards, the grand prize for this event is a roll of duct tape mounted as a trophy. This is the oldest snowboard race in the world (I think), running annually since 1985, and takes three days to complete. It's also a big party. The race is held in the Natural Half Pipe that begins at the top of Chair 5. This is a really big event, and is worth a trip just to see it in action. Check Mount Baker's web site for dates and details.
#13. So Who Should Go?
Locals from as far away as Seattle and Vancouver are regulars here, but most are from the surrounding area, including many skiers who cross the US/Canada border from the suburbs east of Vancouver. If you're on a trip to Whistler, fly into Seattle, and want to make a quick detour it would fit right in. Planning a week at Mt. Baker sounds great, but you never know about the weather. Few people do this.
--by Posaune, EpicSki's Ambassador for Mt. Baker
 Trail Map
|
|
|
 Conditions
|
|
|
|
 Transportation
|
|
|
|
 Lodging
|
|
|
| Name |
Description |
Maximum Occupancy |
Price Range |
|
Anderson Creek Lodge
|
B&B located in Bellingham, 55 miles from the the ski area. Each room has a private bath, complimentary full breakast and Internet access and there is a hot tub.
|
Extra person charges may apply
|
$135 and up
|
|
Mt. Baker Getaways
|
Cabins, chalets, condominiums and cottages are located approximately 35 minutes from the ski area. (Their web site says 15 minutes. Maybe in a helicopter you can do it, but it's over 20 miles of windy roads to get there.)
|
Extra person charges may apply
|
$199 and up
|
|
Baker Accommodations
|
Condominiums and cabins (usually with a two night minimum) with full kitchen, indoor pools and hot tubs.
|
Extra person charges may apply
|
$145 and up
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Dining
|
|
|
Other than the day lodges at the ski area, there are several good eateries along the Mt. Baker Highway:
Glacier has Chair 9 Pizza, a new bar and restaurant that is fast becoming the apres favorite of locals. It is located as close to the ski area as is possible, about 17 miles away. Milano's, about a mile farther along the highway is an Italian restaurant that serves fantastic food at reasonable prices.
Seven miles farther down the road toward town is Maple Falls which has three restaurants which include a deli, and two restaurant/bars.
A few miles farther toward Bellingham is a unique place, the North Fork Brewery and Beer Shrine. They brew their own beer, have great pizza and calzones, and a collection of beer bottles, cans, and signs that must be seen to be appreciated. According to their sign they also have a wedding chapel.
|