Pros: Just enough steeps to be interesting. A racers' place.
Cons: Not quite enough vert to make it a Colorado destination.
Aside from all of the condo development, this place remains relatively unchanged since the 1960's as far as I can tell. It was named originally Purgatory ... after a mine I think.
I skied here for two days in late march during a PSIA event in late March. A severe cold front put the temps below zero for one day. There were zero lift lines during the weekend. A fascinating regional junior Slalom and GS event was being held on this day as well. Purgatory was always known as a racer's hill. It isn't known for its powder, although it is advertised as such these days. The groomed slopes have adequate steepness and length for major events. I don't think it has enough vert on any one run to have a World Cup Downhill course. There's also enough base elevation to make the place legitimate for spring skiing.
What made this place for me was one particular lift, an old slow double chair on the far end of the mountain where there was some very decent steep terrain. There are some very good bumps here and the tree skiing was excellent. There was 4 inches of powder on top of crusty old stuff. Just enough to have fun. What could make this resort world class would be some sort of linkage with the emerging Silverton ski area ... a powderhound mecca. I didn't go there on this trip. The reason was that I'd have to spend a separate day skiing there and there was no special joint ticket. A highway, Colorado 550, links the two. However the pass is kinda hairy and hopping over there may be, even under the best of weather conditions, rather iffy.
So, Purgatory flies under the skier radar. There is fascinating potential with a restored railroad offering year round operation, hot springs offering a delightful soak, and a gentrification of old Durango. But until management at the neighboring resorts (which could extend as far as Wolf Creek and Monarch as well as Silverton) plans out some sort of superpass, Purgatory and Durango will continue to fly beneath the radar.
I can't offer much input on night life or amenities. I tend to focus purely upon the skiing. It's kind of nice that the place hasn't changed all that much over the years. It is sad to see many of the old jonathan orchards carved up for houselots down in the valley. But such is ski life in the 21st century.