Arapahoe Basin

Scenic and steep, A-Basin opened for skiing in 1946 and is deservedly referred to as The Legend. The retro A-Frame base lodge once served as a missile testing facility. The massive interior wood beam framework could withstand a direct hit from a missile or an avalanche.

A-Basin is perched on the western flank of the Continental Divide just across from Loveland Pass. The first thing you’ll notice descending from the pass on US Highway 6 is the hike-to extreme terrain of the precipitous 13,000 foot East Wall. It towers over a choice selection of lift served options from corduroy cruisers on the Lenawee and Norway Faces, to world class black diamond bump runs in the Pallavicini trail pod, to the wide open ridges of Montezuma Bowl. An expert would never tire of this place, but there are also enough easy runs to provide a novice with a couple days of fun.

On sunny days rip cord down sweet upper-intermediate groomers off Norway and Lenawee chairs, both with about 1,000 feet of vertical. There are nice black diamond chutes off Founders Ridge in the Montezuma Bowl, also known as Zuma Cornice. They have a fun 10’ cornice drop with an awesome backdrop of Rocky Mountain vistas. During low visibility days try skirting snow fences or dip into glades like Torreys in lower Montezuma Bowl or Cabin under the Lenawee Mtn chair.  Enjoy a lunch break in the relatively new mid-mtn Black Mtn Lodge.

The impressively steep Pallavicini trail pod on the front face of the mountain contains about 20 double black diamond runs and is served by its own chairlift rising 1,329 vertical feet. Unrelenting steeps with serious moguls, this is very stout skiing!  Of course, the legit experts climb East Wall for extreme routes.

If you’re looking to test your skills or just dislike the hassle and pretension of larger resorts, check out the hardcore, yet friendly scene at A-Basin. Its 900 acres represent a condensed version of the cream of Colorado. Lift served skiing takes place between approximately 10,800 and 12,500 feet. Hiking the East Wall can add another 500 vertical feet. The high elevation and mostly northern exposure make A-Basin one of the premier spring skiing destinations in the US with lifts routinely spinning into the month of June.

A-Basin is not that big, but its terrain packs a punch.  This is not a mountain for cruising groomers.  This is a mountain for finding your own line through the rocks, trees and rolling terrain.  or over the edge of a cornice.  or down the bumpy steeps of pali.  If Colorado is having a decent snow-year then you can bet the snow is terrific at A-basin, where the elevation and angle keeps the snow soft.  Also, the season pass is one of the cheapest in CO, or anywhere.

I was there a couple days ago in white-out conditions, which is nuts because above treeline the light is so flat your skiing is all reactive, especially on the rolling, ungroomed terrain.  But the next day there was several inches of fresh on a bluebird morning, and it was glory.  We picked out lines all over, working our way around from the parts of the mountain easy to get to and then over to the harder parts.  Pretty sweet looking at our own tracks going up the lift over and over.  Then today I was there with my daughter, who is learning to ski.  We didn't really make it much beyond the magic carpet, but she made some progress and had fun and that was great too.

People knock the fact that there isn't a resort attached to the ski area, but who needs a resort when Keystone is only 5 miles down the road and Summit County is loaded with Apres?  I'd rather smell the bbq coming from "the beach" along the front row of the parking lot, eat my sack lunch at 12,400 feet in the patrol cabin refuge, and get cheap cocktails or a pint from the excellent beer selection.  

A-basin is one of the first resort along the I-70 corridor from Denver.  It does not attract many out-of-state destination tourists and is more popular with locals.  It cost less and is smaller than the mega-resorts in Colorado.  It has steep terrain that can be accessed by traversing.  The few times I have been there the snow coverage has not been that great, which makes the steeper terrain exposed and un-skiable.  It is a fun place to go for a day trip if you are staying in Denver, or to experience some variety if you are based in the Summit valley area.  Locals also like skiing in the back-country off of Loveland pass, which I thought was better terrain than A-basin. 

I had a pass here for years, and still would if I still lived in Colorado.  A-Basin rocks, and if you ski a lot here you won't be intimidated by the terrain most anywhere else.

It's not a huge area, but there's so much fun packed into so few acres you wouldn't know it.  If you're looking for endless groomers, keep driving because Keystone is right up the road.  But if you're looking to challenge yourself with trees, bumps, and steeps, A-Basin is your place.  

The pass prices are pretty reasonable in the scheme of things, and they'll let you brown bag it in the cafeteria (they even provide the microwave).  The parking lot is *right* there, too, so it's easy enough to drop down your tailgate and barbecue.  A-Basin is one of those places that isn't overtly warped by huge money, and the low-key vibe will remind you of why you got into skiing in the first place.

The conditions here can be really marginal, especially in the early season.  They make up for it by staying open late, though, and spring skiing at A-Basin can be a corn-snow blast.

A-Basin isn't for everybody.  There are steeper/gnarlier big-skiing mountains, there are CERTAINLY ritzier places out there.  But if you're looking for the real deal and can live without $50/plate dining, give A-Basin a shot.