Posts by wickedsprint

Kind of..the skis have a plain surface...better to mount separate toe piece and heel piece or a binding that is connected with a flimsy set of plastic. Both bindings in question mount right to the skis bare surface ie require drilling.

to add...I didn't wanna hijack Hazmats thread but it sounds like him and I have similar tendencies so I figured it would helps us both. -Tony

If I tried doing less wicked turns..I got going too fast for my comfort zone..the only way I could keep speed in check was to turn such that I was going slightly back uphill, I think one of the people taking us is an instructor..I will...

The stupid piece of metal/plastic that makes the entire binding assembly toe piece and heel piece one part bolted to a ski..vs a separate heel piece and separate toe piece bolted to a ski.

I know I can't carve...I think it is plain fun to see how fast you can get going..and see how long you can sustain a perfectly sideways slide..to each their own...most drivers also think they can drive well, take them to the racetrack...

How much of a big deal is getting the bindings that have a plastic plate to connect the fore and aft sections, vs the two piece bindings that are only connected by the ski?

I have no trouble getting both edges the same angle, but if I try and put weight on the inside ski it tries to run into the outside ski, so should we be exxagerating the femor rotation you speak of? I don't feel like I am engaging the...

we still have like 5-6 inches sitting on the ground here in wyoming, have for about a week.

This may sound like a stupid question, but the omecarve 9s are praised for their ability to handle crud and bumps so well, but don't skis that traditionaly favor those conditions have a wider waist with less sidecut?

Your technique is exasctly like mine..with the unweighting and putting ALL of the weight on the outside ski, good at bleeding speed, I will eventually give up and learn two footed skiing, but as it is right now on all of my fast sweeper...