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bootfitting

#1
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10/30/09 at 6:36am
  • Joined: November 2008
  • Post Count: 37
About me: 6'0", 175 lbs. Street shoe 10.5, boot size 26.5.
Boots: atomic CS 120, and atomic M100
Recreational racer, likely level high 7-8. Can ski any blacks easily out west, and most double blacks. I like to go fast and consider myself a strong handed skiier. mostly ski midwest, ~ 2 trips out west (~2-3 weeks a year) 40-50 days skiing/yr

I went to my local bootfitter (20 something year old), but he measured me up for canting and cuff alignment. My cuff alignment was good. However, my knees were on the inside of the center of the boot.  He put canting strips underneat the boots (1 degree on the left and 0.5 degrees on the right) - that seemed to correct it, High on the inside. We attempted different angles as well, and after a while (fatigue?), my right leg went from 0.5 to 2 degrees needed to correct center of knee over center boot.

Why would this be the case? I had superfeet blue footbeds (cannot afford customs)

I have problems disengaging the outside edges of my skis, and my skis like to diverge.

Is correcting these 1 degree and .5 or 2 degrees going to make a difference in my skiing?

Thanks!

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#2
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10/30/09 at 7:44am
  • Joined: November 2005
  • Location: Truckee, CA
  • Post Count: 431

Quote:
 We attempted different angles as well, and after a while (fatigue?), my right leg went from 0.5 to 2 degrees needed to correct center of knee over center boot.

Why would this be the case? I had superfeet blue footbeds (cannot afford customs)

 

there are many variables that can cause a "moving target". could you describe the tools and method your guy was using to measure your stance? which boot of the two you mentioned were you canting? has the boot been used? is the sole of the boot square and flat?

jim
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#3
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10/30/09 at 7:59am
  • Joined: November 2008
  • Post Count: 37

thanks for the response Jim.

 

He first used a static guide, it was a plate on the ground with a bar parrell to the floor with a laser attached perpenidicular to the ground. It measured my patellar tendon with a tool, and put a mark on the middle of my knee. Stance was normal width (center of boots over the center of my iliac crest). Cuff alignment done with footbeds in boots without liners. Then canting done with footbeds in liners in boots, standing tall, then in ski stance (pressure on front of boot).

 

He also attempted to do it on the free moving apparatus (don't know what it is called). Basically, a set of skis with fore/aft and free lateral movement. Had me move around, then in ski stance (using poles). This was highly variable and really not able to achieve consistant reslts.

He was canting my race boots, they are pretty much brand new (soles are extremely flat) -- used them 2 times late last season.

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#4
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10/30/09 at 10:02am
  • Joined: November 2005
  • Location: Truckee, CA
  • Post Count: 431
good feed back.

so far, nothing jumps out as far technique your fitter was using. it sounds like he was trying to do what most of us would do if we were getting confused readings.

common tricks when stuck are to take the skier off the stand and have them take off boots and have a quick break. get back up and recheck. multiple times if necessary.

also rechecking the parts by removing foot, liner, footbed, bootboard.

i might also try to speed check the position by have them get on and off the stand rapidly and in succession.

one last thing that may have been overlooked, is the bootboard. is there anything going on with the bootboard? ground on top? bottom? properly seated in the shell?

jim

when completely stymied by a moving target, the next step is out to the snow with duct tape. really helpful to add the eye of a coach or trainer.

the good news about your assessment is that it sounds like you are always coming out with a result in the same direction, it is just a matter of the correct amount.
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#5
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10/30/09 at 10:16am
  • Joined: November 2008
  • Post Count: 37
I applogize if you already explained this. But how do you use the duct tape to try it out? Do you build up the base of the boot to get the desired cant?

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#6
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10/30/09 at 2:12pm
  • Joined: November 2004
  • Location: reno/tahoe
  • Post Count: 3,592
 Not to butt in here, BUT,  even though your boots  are new DO  NOT ASSUME THEY ARE FLAT, check them on a flat/true surface for any  rocking movement and  plane flat  before beginning canting  assessment.

Duct  tape is  typically used  to shim  binding to simulate cant angles.  Generally, 4 layers of duct  tape is equivalent to 1 degree cant.   Take the  width of  one strip  of duct tape and tear it in 1/4's and layer  to  achieve the desired  thickness.   Would not  suggest any thicker than 6 - 8 layers.

 "Givin' you the Edge" www.snowind.com Synergy coaching/alignment

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#7
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11/2/09 at 6:40am
  • Joined: November 2008
  • Post Count: 37
Thanks bud. I apperciate the info regarding the boots being flat. I have tried them on a true surface (a steel plate) and they were flat.

Thanks again! I'll give the duct tape thing a try.

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