therusty, look at Tomas nailing that White Pass turn

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Tomas, this turn came to you by accidet but its exactly what therusty talked about earlier in his posting. This is not a proper Whit Pass turn. I would rather call it a White Pass turn initiation. Your weight is totally on your new inside ski at the initiation of your new turn. It all started in previous turn to the right where you insted of what you usually do, lean onto you inside ski, kept the pressure on both skis and sufficiently over your outside ski. This you did by anuglating insted of banking, which I repeat, is inclination gone bad. Check for this in my first posting. The result was momentum you were not prepared for. This is also what I was talking about in my first posting. You lack momentum and rebound in your normal skiing. You have no saved energy that you can explosively project forward into transition and into the new turn. So, you were caught off balance and your old inside ski was lifted off the snow. To regain balance you did all the right moves. Here you can actually see how you start the turn by inclination in frames 1 and 2 and then you angulate in frame 3. This montage also shows a ILE transition to finish up your left turn. Looking very good. Nice job. Well done. Pay attention to your inside left hand dropping behind in frame 3. This is what therusty also commented on. Read his excellent posting very thoroughly. Your inside arm dropping behind is actually a leftover move from planting your outside pole, the pole plant. I see you frequently bringing that outside arm forward and to compensate for that you drop your outside arm back. You are planting your poles in the wrong direction. Insted of reaching forwards to plant your pole try to swing it in an arc arround the outside and lightly "tap" it down the fall line. A drill for this is drop the poleplant out of your skiing and after you can do that comfortably start learning to do it like I explained above. When you carve like this I dont really think you need to plant at all. It should be optional. If it helps you then yes but now its only wrecking your skiing. Dropping the poleplant does not mean you have to stop bringing your arms forwards like you do at transition. Its a good moove that you still can do. Actually it becomes easier if you drop your pole plant.
Check out this frame capture. I would say you are looking like a pro. I would say there is nothing wrong with this frame or this turn or turn transition. Its right after that huge jump where you were airborn at least 30m

. You look like a WC skier free skiing. The right movements are there, just get rid of that haniging towards the inside of the turn putting to much of your weight on the inside ski. You are nicely angulated, your skis are arcing, your upper body is calm and steady and in balance, your arms are out to the sides and down, your shoulders are levelled, your shins are parallel, your back is hunched rounded and curved, your head is dropped, your are well balanced over your skis, weight forwards. Lifting that inside arm and feeling steching tention in your inside hip area are signes you are doing the right movements.

BTW, I think your carving in a tuck is great skiing. You also seem to be able to get in a low tuck. And carve at the same time. Good hip and leg work.
Your SL segment shows much of what has been commented on before. Nothing new except for the heavy rotation you do. You throw your body arround very quickly at the beginning of the segment becaue you want to come arround quickly. This together with your typical up move (leftover from the past) makes you lose pressure in the beginning of the tun and your ski edges grab the snow after apex. Insted you should do what you do later on in that segment as the pist flats out. Work with your legs. Flex and extend. Flex through the transiton and extend into the turn. That kind of turning is also called reacing SL turns. Your reach out with your legs to pass the gate. You yourself are skiing on the inside of the gate. CoM moves as little as possible in the horisontal plane. And the vertical plane. Only forward and down the slope. The less you move your CoM the smoother you ski. Here is one last capture showing good and bad form. Now when you know what to do it should not be a problem stating your advanced level once and for all. BTW, if you look at this last photo montage you can pretend that the frames are from the same turn. I did this on purpouse so that you and others can see what I mean when I say that angulation should be dynamic and used when needed only just as any other move you do. Start out with inclination in high C where its important that you hook your skis up in a carve and you set the gross parameters of the turn. Your projection into the new turn or whatever you want to call it. That means falling down the slope if you are crossing perpendicular at transition. Then letting the skis catch up. Then applying angulation and counter. Right after apex the forces start to really build up and quickly. You need quick muscle reactions and prefect timing. Timing is much more important than big muscles. Skiing done properly is also efficient skiing. Bad technique werars you our. Good technique also werars you out but you are at compleatly different perfoming level. Here is the photomontage:

Both photos are taken from the same moment in the turn. Notice how the knees are pointing into the turn in the upper frame leaving the hips to the outside and how that is not so in the lower frame. Also, check out the long leg short leg in lower frame

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Hope this helps,
Tom