Posted this in the wrong forum... moved it over to the tuning forum.
10/19/09 at 1:52pm
Recent Reviews
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I have the 178cm skis with an 18M turn radius. I've skied them in a variety of conditions in New York, Vermont, Tahoe and Snowbird. They're great for a 1-ski quiver. Decent...
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Skis: Scott Punisher twin tips, 191cm, 130-90-116, 15M TR Me: too old to be skiing twin tips, 6'0", 185lbs, skiing for almost 45 years. Test location: Gore Mtn, NY, 1-13-09. Conditions were...
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I grew up skiing here, and at Keystone resort. This is known around Summit County as the resort for locals, evidenced by its consistent first place rank among Summit County...
What Barking Bears Want
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Ski Base Flattener
10/19/09 at 2:18pm
The Skivisions base flattener is a useful tool, but is not a replacement for a good base grind. I use it primarily to smooth out the bases after doing base repairs (after initially shaving off most of the excess ptex with a scraper or file). It is also exceptional for removing old wax. One can get some pale semblance of base grinding by first hand sanding with coarse grit, the using the flattening blade to smooth it out and shave off ptex fuzz. This will flatten the bases, but doesn't approach the finish of a shop grind.
The steel flattening blade is perfectly square, and so, can be very easily resharpened with a diamond polishing stone, and thus can be used forever. The blade will become nicked when it cuts into edges, and the nicks can cut grooves in your bases, so working on edges (they can't be higher than the base material) first is important, as is checking and maintaining the edge on the steel blade.
When it comes to structuring, I don't recommend it. I have two different structuring stones, and neither of them is true, so using them would make the bases either concave or convex. What I'd like for it, is a riller blade to create linear structure, but I don't think they make one for it.
The steel flattening blade is perfectly square, and so, can be very easily resharpened with a diamond polishing stone, and thus can be used forever. The blade will become nicked when it cuts into edges, and the nicks can cut grooves in your bases, so working on edges (they can't be higher than the base material) first is important, as is checking and maintaining the edge on the steel blade.
When it comes to structuring, I don't recommend it. I have two different structuring stones, and neither of them is true, so using them would make the bases either concave or convex. What I'd like for it, is a riller blade to create linear structure, but I don't think they make one for it.
The heaviness of the complexity fuels the force behind the dart that hits the mark.
