Poles?

The last thing I need to be ready for the season are poles. Does it really matters what brand do I buy? Aren't they all the same?
What lenght should I get?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Yes. No. See beginner forum FAQ's.  


All carbon fiber ....  somewhat spendy  People shatter them but others have them for years
Half carbon half aluminum.... my favorite, the best of both worlds
All aluminum    Affordable bendable and snap the easiest
Extendable poles.       Better for trekking  but very functional

Poles are poles IMO.


Q: What size of ski poles do I need?
A:  To find the correct size of poles, you'll most likely need an assistant to aide in measuring.  Hang your arm down with your elbow against your waist.  Bend the elbow at 90 degrees so that your forearm is parallel to the floor.  Have your assistant measure the distance from your thumb in a clenched fist to the floor.  This length, in inches, determines your standard ski pole length.  Remember that ski poles sink into the snow about 2-3 inches when pushed. 

Q: What if I don't have a helper?
A:  No problem!  Just grab the closest broom handle and hold it bristle-side up..  Mark where your thumb is and then measure it.

Q: What if that all sounds like too much work?
A: No problem!  If you find yourself to be a generic body shape, then feel free to use this generic sizing conversion - remember, this is generic stuff.:

   Height    =  Pole length
  ------------------------
   6'7" or +   = 56"
   6'4" - 6'6" = 54"
   6'1" - 6'3" = 52"
   5'10" - 6'0" = 50"
   5'7" - 5'9" = 48"
   5'4" - 5'6" = 46"
   5'1" - 5'3" = 44"
   4'9" - 5'0" = 42"
  4'5" - 4'8" = 40"
  4'1" - 4'4" = 38"
  3'9" - 4'0" = 36"
  3'5" - 3'8" = 34

Thanks

Spend the $ for a pair of composites.They should be in the $50 price reange.

First their low swing weight is instantly noticeable, they absorb shock really well (like when you hit a baseball off the handle), and they are very durable.

It sucks to bend a pole in the middle of a great day; go composite, carbon fiberglass types. I once had mine leaning against the back of the car when I pulled out of the spot. car wouldn't go. I got out and looked behind. the poles were wedged and the car wasn't moving. they're strong enough.  Steeper terrain with deep snow = slightly longer pole, otherwise the formulas are fine.

Quote:
There are actually two type of these poles ;) Both of them are called composite, but one are 100% carbon (more expensive), while others are less then 100% carbon (some are only 30 or 40%) while the rest is fiberglass. 100% carbon are lighter, stiffer, and also harder, while non-100% carbon poles are less expensive. Now it's up to you to decide which one you want ;)

Here's another way to look at it:

Poles are sticks.  They have a basket on the end to keep the pole from going into the snow too far and a grip and strap to help you hold on.  There is not much involved in that.  Unless you are racing, spending a bunch of money on poles is nearly useless.  You can pick up good poles for next to nothing at ski swaps.  Hang around long enough and people will give you poles.  I've been skiing since 1963 and I've spent a grand total of $12 combined on the purchase price for poles over my entire life.  I've spent more than that on replacing baskets.  My last pair cost $7 at the swap and they are carbon fiber, just scratched up a bit.  Big deal.  If you're worried about breaking or bending a pole, buy two pair.

$50 for poles?  You've got to be kidding.  Save your money and buy beer instead.

Can I use this as my signature?

As long as it is attributed.

So, do you buy quality beer or just anything abandoned on the table?

(I have a couple pairs that were abandoned leaning against the Bear box, due to torn straps. I cut em to length, sewed the strap, and good to go. or part them out, grips, straps, baskets. but they're aluminum and not for big days for me.)

more constructively, get a pole that uses a very commonly available basket, powder and std.

Quality:
Gloves
Helmet
Boots

Jacket

Beer
 

Economize:
Poles
Base layers (brand irrelevant, look not so important)
Pants (eg, maybe not top brand, perhaps still Gore Tex)
Skis (you're just gonna wreck them anyway)
Food

Reliable Racing Supply (www.reliableracing.com, 800-223-4448) has Swix World Cup poles, 2008 models for $30.  While they last.  Unless you are chasing FIS points they should do you well. 

That beer was ABANDONED?  I thought they left it just for me!  Can't beat the price, though.

 Calibrating Ski Poles, Yes or No?

Be sure to check the calibration of your poles or you may be in big trouble.

Size is simple.  Turn the pole over and hold it past the basket with the end/point part in your fist having the basket bottom on the heel of your hand. Is your arm close to parallel to the ground?  It should be a tad higher so your arm would be parallel to the ground with the pole planted while wearing your skis and boots.  Sometimes a bit longer for some advanced disciplines, steeps, etc..

I use standard, and very old aluminum poles.  I've never broken or bent one, but I've been through quite a few baskets and a couple of straps.  I've had a couple of the more expensive ones stolen over the years.  I guess if I needed a pair I would tale a look at something more modern and lighter weight in the future.

That said, if you're still learning you just might have some accidents that would ruin a pole.  Sometimes the chairlift chops them off if they happen to be planted when getting on or off the lift.  And, of course they can be damaged in a nasty wipe out.

I would go cheap.  If any of the above happens you can always rent poles at the resort for a couple bucks (maybe five dollars?).  They also sell them in the shop, but stuff there is highway robbery prices.  A chairlift will snap, bend,  or shatter even the most expensive poles so another reason to go cheap unless you don't mind the risks.

The benefit of really good poles is they are lighter, and they flex and bend a lot more before failing.

By the way, it is getting harder to find baskets for my older poles so that is something to also consider, basic maintenance costs and availability of replacement parts.

I was advised the my poles were too long, which I had from doing this method.  With modern ski technology and the desire to stay out of the back seat, the recommendation is to do what crgildart says then shave off two inches.

In general I agree poles don't matter. But until you ski with top of line carbon poles, you will never believe there is difference. There actually is big difference between how carbon and alu poles feel. But then again, there's even bigger difference in price.
I use Exel World cup poles, which you can get for around 110-120eur (I guess somewhere around $150-160), and to be honest, I would never use them, if I wouldn't get them for free. They sure feel great, but at least in my opinion not that much better, that they would be worth paying so much for it.

That would probably be arm parallel to the ground with the pole upside down without skis and boots on your feet.  That makes it even easier.  It is true that shortening the poles is one approach to getting folks reaching forward more/less backseat.  It depends on how steep the terrain is too on perfect pole length.  You might want something a bit longer on steeper terrain.  I don't as I like to feel even more forward on steeper stuff, but I've known others that differed.

Length is a personal choice. 

Hard-core bumpers often go short.  If your skis are constantly calling out to you to lay 'em way over or you hit the steeps, then longer is a likely match.  If you don't skate very well, then slightly longish poles make it easier to push yourself around lift corrals and flats. 

If you're in between sizes, buy long for 2 reasons:  1) you can have them trimmed down for a cheap price but not vice versa, and 2) you can flare them out to the side a hair to accommodate the extra length without impacting your technique, whereas too short will impact your technique (for the worse.)

If you have a chance, demo the 2 closest sizes in the chart / parallel arm test for you.  If your legs/torso/arms differ in relative proportion from "typical," the chart and parallel arm test may be off an inch or two.  As mentioned above in the thread, you can rent them for next to nothing to try different sizes.

Hold your hand under the basket. That sets your gauge at the height it would be if you had it stuck in the snow.

Yup, and then I still took 2 inches off for the right length for me. 

That's actually what I meant but said it wrong LOL.


Must be to account for your stilletto heel boots

I guess really the new school doesn't use the down -up-down as much us old fogeys.  hence, a shorter pole might make sense.

 i would agree poles are poles, unless you have the Leki trigger system.  its a super premium, but hey, not having to fight the straps off every time you get on a lift is well worth the price IMHO.  

True 2.   And one of the reasons I haven't broken or bent a pole in eons is because my poles have breakaway straps that pop off under stress then pop back in to the handle easily.

I think grips & straps matter a lot. That's why I like Scott race poles (I also love bent GS poles).
Scott's poles have really comfy, durable grips with a nice feel and their straps are awesome, too. Not as annoying as Leki's systems.

Light weight and stiff poles feel a lot nicer to use even if they make no real difference at all to your skiing. Low swing weight makes pole planting quick and easy while stiffness is confidence inspiring and feels precise.

I'm not a fan of carbon poles, they are overpriced, bendy and vibrate a lot. The best poles I've used are Scott WC SLs, they are very popular for good reason and have nice grips/straps too.

I think most racers also use alu but don't quote me.

Do any poles still come with real leather straps anymore, or is everything under $50.00 going to have nylon straps?   The leather on my very old poles fits my hands like.. like a.. well really like a glove.  Nylon just isn't the same.

And you only have to hang out around a race arena a few minutes before a Scott basket will come rolling down the hill towards you for a spare/replacement.

MR

Yup, poles is poles, and skis is skis....

Go to a shop and try cheap and expensive. If you can't feel a difference between them, well, good for you.

If low swing weight, shock absorption, changeable baskets for powder and hardpack, nicely shaped grips of high quality material, ice tips etc don;t matter to you, then get the cheapest junk you can, and have at it.

No doubt some would go apoplectic about the difference in skis, or jackets or bindings, or.......but yup, poles is poles......