Calibrating Ski Poles, yes or no?

We have our boots aligned and skis balanced but we never talk about getting the poles properly set up to match the rest of the equipment set up. What pole flex should you use in relationship to ski and/or boot flex? Can skinny (carbon/graphite) poles be used with fat skis? Vice versa, can fat aluminum poles be used with a race ski (under 70mm)? Should the poles be calibrated every year when you have your DIN checked? Is there a relationship to DIN and a proper pole calibration? Should shops charge more for calibrating poles that were purchased on-line vs. poles that were purchased in their store?

Please share your thoughts. 

Are we talking about torsional flex or longitudinal flex? 

Quote:

Originally Posted by epic 

 

Are we talking about torsional flex or longitudinal flex? 

Both, and their relationship on each other. 

Interesting thread topic, even if not sure your face is straight. What do you mean by proper calibration? Do shops even do something like that? Judging by the number of fatish Scott WC alu poles I see on racers, and skinny carbon poles - or just bizarro trashed crap - I see on backsiders, I'd say that answer to those parts is "yes," "yes," and "doesn't correlate."  

But how often do we plant a pole on groomed except to get around lifts or use them for glove hooks in the spring when we get a waffle? Taps for timing only seem to concern swingweight, not flex or diameter. Personally do not like springy poles and tend to ablate carbon way too fast anyway, so I'm a Leki alu or titanium guy. Guess you could say that my poles and boots are stiffer than most of my skis. Use same light poles, small baskets for backside, should switch to my telescoping with bigger baskets for AT, but half the time forget to bring them. Hopeless. 

For extra credit, please discuss the role of the Holy Roman Empire in choice of pole color schemes.

Is there a standard calibration for tip bevel?

What about the grip and length of the strap? How do I adjust the strap for proper fit? 

And, most importantly, what has Richie Rich purchased to cover all exigencies?

BTW, I clock Phil's post at 4:02 am local time, which means it was still April 1 Stateside.

And it took less then an hour for someone to take it seriously.

But now that we're on the topic, how about pole basket width/ski width ratio?

I think only calibration, next to pole lenght can be calibration of pole colors to match your skis, pants and jacket :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by primoz 

 

I think only calibration, next to pole lenght can be calibration of pole colors to match your skis, pants and jacket :D

There is also the colour of the fuzzy dice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by karpiel 

 

And it took less then an hour for someone to take it seriously.

I think you mean me.  Well, couldn't decide. And was on east coast time, am chronically out of touch with dates anyway, and never even realized it could be the 1st. Sigh. 

Phil, you have a lot to learn about pole calibration.  The issue isn't flex.  What is important is dialing the grip to make sure it is oriented correctly with the basket.  It's amazing how even a slight discrepancy in this area can make it nearly impossible to execute a good turn.  When you look at all of the people on the hill using gross upper body rotation to turn their skis, you can just about bet that the problem has to do with pole alignment.  It's actually really sad.  Most people never realize that such a seemingly minor adjustment could instantly transform them from gapers to rippers.

I think a ratio of 79:1 is a good way to gauge the proper pole diameter. I am finding this to be a good rule of thumb, then adjust 1mm for each 8" of powder. I have noticed that a slightly thick pole will cause my Hip to over-rotate causing a lag in my lifting and tipping.... 

Hmm never quite looked at it this way...but serious or not, poles are something I have taken into consideration enough to have bought several of for the different skiing I intend to do....and they do make a difference in the way I ski. 

Of course there are the carbide tipped Leki race poles (armored straight SL and curved GS), then I have the three pairs of carbon poles (Head, Scott, Apex) that were meant to be my all around poles, they were cut to length but once I found them to be too flexy for the usually stiff snow we have...and I actually snapped one (Head) on Racer's edge at Hunter...bad crash....So then I bought some red and white (candy cane) aluminum Leki's that several of Bears have seen me using, they are great all around poles, good for racing and or free skiing.  They are straight, have the Trigger, and are airfoil shaped...very stiff, same construction as the WC poles.

I guess one could tune the poles if they really wanted to, add more or less swing weight, chang the C.O.M...like they do with golf clubs.

Sniffs bait, swims around a bit..  This is an April Fool isn't it?

Although I did unknowingly ski with a pair of poles that were two inches longer than my regular poles for an hour and didn't figure out why I kept getting knocked a little backseat until I held the poles upside down to check the length.

But "calibrating"? 

By the way, who needs DIN anyway?  I just crank them down until I can barely twist or step out of the skis.  Anybdody got a  broken leg emoticon?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finndog 

 

 I have noticed that a slightly thick pole will cause my Hip to over-rotate causing a lag in my lifting and tipping.... 

Actually, you have to have special poles for lifting and tipping. Some brands of poles are "rotary poles" and you can't use those.

This post brings out an important aspect of ski equipement acquisition that is often overlooked.  Probably because most skiers are of clueless Northern European descent they don't adhere to the principles of feng shui.  The length, caliper and color of your poles can directly effect the balance of your gear including your skis and bindings.  I bet half the knee injuries on this forum are because of negatifve qi due to imbalanced equipment.

TIme to un-ban Tai Chi Skiing and let him enlighten us on Zen and the ski pole.

Quote:

Originally Posted by epic 

 

 

 

Actually, you have to have special poles for lifting and tipping. Some brands of poles are "rotary poles" and you can't use those.

ahh, you're correct, I will have to post this......  Oh wait, I'm banned there....

Obviously Phil knows a properly calibrated pole when he sees it.

That's a true sign of proper calibration when you can actaully levitate your pole!  Good on ya' Phil

I have just opened a new shop, The Grip Pro.

I will be taking orders for custom molded grips with or without custom gloves.

Please sign up now for next season.

I am also beta testing the Wintesteiger pole tip beveler.

I will also be demoing the reverse camber helmet that serves as a rain gauge.These will be fitted by a trained phrenologist

How bout twin tip poles for the park? 

The pole calibrating talk at the banquet dinner was truly enlightening.  LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pandita 

 

The pole calibrating talk at the banquet dinner was truly enlightening.  LOL

Did you have one of the McGregor Balancers?

Quote:

Originally Posted by crgildart 

 

How bout twin tip poles for the park? 

I prefer the quad tips on the old Scott pistol grip strapless poles, (it's just like the razors).  Of course the pole needs to be updated to carbon fibre to absorb shock and save wrists from breakage. 

Twoturn,

Will your shop do customised retrofitting work as well.

Lou brought his MacGregor Balancer as well as his patented FlexScan(tm). Bud made do with one of the Huntley bath towels to file away the excess and reveal what he called "the soul of the pole."

Pole calibration is actually a very important and overlooked sub-specialty in the ski gear industry.  There are some very important aspects of poles that go into the calibration model.  A partial list follows:

• Skier height
• Skier weight
• Skier arm to leg ratio
• Pole length
• Pole ratio to skier arm length
• Pole taper
• Pole material
• Pole offset
• Basket ratio from bottom of pole
• Number of prongs on the pole tip
• Strap location (Top or bottom of grip)
• Grip material
• Grip position
• Location of the basket half moon cut out

These are but a few. Currently, the ski racing industry is very interested in this subject.  They have found that properly calibration of ski poles will cut up to 0.1 seconds off a run.

The Deutsches Institut fur Normung (German Institute for Standardization) is currently working on a DIN calibration standard for poles.  They are hoping to have the standard out in late 2010.

All of my poles are laterally stiff yet vertically compliant.

:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwoof2 

 

All of my poles are laterally stiff yet vertically compliant.

 

 

:D

 

 

That is all well and good, but have then been officially calibrated?