Marker Duke Binding

I had these mounted on my old Gotomas, the black ones with the big gold Buddha picture on the tails. 183cm. I didn't get a chance to try the touring mode yet. What really surprised me was how much better the ski worked on hard snow. My previous binding was some Rossi turntables FKS155 with a small lifter plate of about 5mm. The Markers are much taller giving me much more leverage on the edges. It took me a couple of runs before I realized I was still on my Goats, the ones that used to really hate harder snow. I am thinking of putting lifters on my new Goats. I think it would greatly improve it's versatility.

They do give a significant amount of lift, which is beneficial on-piste. The extra lift of AT bindings has always struck me as wrong for off-piste skiing though. At least on my naxos, the skis feel a little clumsy underfoot in some cases. I think the Dukes have less lift than other AT bindings, right? If that's the case it could be an ideal compromise.

The difference between this and your Naxos and my Freerides is the solid connection to the skis. The flex at the binding interface has been the biggest drawback to AT setups.

I want to try some dukes out, but I am still guessing that on a dedicated pow ski a naxo or FR+ gives up nothing to a duke performance wise unless you are trying to do some large drops.

I'm guessing you are absolutely right.

The stack height is not significantly higher than the Freeride +, but the mounting is very secure, which should improve skiability. Cannot comment on difference in performance yet as I don't get back on the snow until February.

This is a fairly heavy setup, so it is definately a slack country rig.

Couple of pictures here.

I’ve been using the Duke since early December (when not on rock skis) and have about 50 hours on this binding. I’ve used both my Falcons and the Adrenalin in the binding. Although the length of the two boots is only a few millimeters different, I have to adjust the forward pressure when changing boots. It is mounted on Mantras. I’ve used the Duke both at resorts and BC.

So far I’ve had one concern with the bindings, but this only occurred once. This was a premature release when traversing a bump run at a modest speed to avoid a rocky section. My heal released in a trough. This became a concern given Marker’s reputation for premature release of this nature, and since I had the din set at 10 (I weigh about 180) it should not have released. In retrospect, I might have had some snow between the toe piece and binding. Other than this, the binding released appropriately once when the tip of the ski snagged a stick poking out the snow. The binding has not released when skiing over a few smallish drops (8 to 10 feet), aggressive bump skiing, fast skiing in heavy crud, big and fast GS turns on hard pack, and knee deep power skiing.

The binding feels SOLID underfoot. I can not detect any movement or flex in the binding at all, and it feels like any high quality ski binding.

The transition from travel to ski mode requires taking the ski off the boot and moving a lever that is between the toe and heal piece (under the boot). This is a minor annoyance most of the time. However, as other bears have noted on another thread, switching to ski mode at the top of run when the snow is deep and the conditions sketchy is not a fun situation. In order to switch from travel to ski mode (or ski to travel), one has to release the binding, balance on the ski that is attached, lift the released ski up, dig into the lever mechanism with a finger (it’s usually packed with snow) to lock the binding down, and then put the ski back on. This is OK on a solid surface, but not in deep or steep.

The other minor issue is the relative higher weight of the binding system (compared to other AT bindings), as other have mentioned.

Overall, IMHO the Duke is a very solid binding that is excellent for resort use and occasional BC/sidecountry jaunts. It does exactly what I wanted for my needs.

One thing I would like to have a dedicated Duke/Jester user address.

How do you feel this binding performs under UPHILL conditions?

I've looked at the climbing post and it SEEMS to be pretty anemic comparied to the other serious AT bindings out there. I don't wish to imply that *I* can skin up a 40 degree slope with my Fritschi Freerides (there ARE mutants who can can do this), but the angle on the Duke climbing post just seems too shallow to really help when the going gets steep.

So far here at Jackson Hole, I've seen DOZENS of pairs of Dukes, but I haven't seen a single pair of them skinning up a hill.

Sorry for the oversight. I've had no concerns with uphill climbing on the modest slopes I've climbed. The climbing post has worked OK for me, but I have not done long trips yet. The BC conditions here are really bad this year with some very nasty weak layers, and I've avoided serious climbing. I will make more comments at a later date.

The climbing post is the weakest link in my opinion. Most dukes are going on huge skis. Huge skis w/ wall to wall skins can climb pretty damn steep slopes. I just take shorter steps to compensate for the relatively short post. New posts are being made available. The post is a little difficult to operate w/ a pole but not too much worse than the fritschi's. The touring is A+ I've heard they tour better than Freerides. The fact the dukes move back in tour mode makes kick turns difficult but thats maybe just cause my skis are 194s. People complain about getting them back into alpine mode but I've never had a problem.

Getting the Duke back to alpine mode has also been an minor hassle for me. The set-up requires holding the binding plate down with one hand and pulling the locking lever with another. This takes alittle more effort and time than other AT bindings. On FR Freeride binding for example, the plate is pushed down by the skier's weight since the clamping mechanism can be operated with boot attached to the ski. The Duke does not have this advantage. When it is colder or when there is some snow stuck to the housing, getting the binding back to alpine mode takes even more effort. Not a major problem, but is part of the design flaw of putting the locking lever under foot rather than behind IMHO.

If you are having an issue with pre-release with the Duke probably has to do with the forward pressure setting. Just add another half turn to the adjustment. There should be no reason at a 10 din setting you should ever pre-release.

I'd say putting the lever under the boot is a design consideration, not a 'flaw'. The binding CANNOT switch modes while the boot is engaged, switching modes, or 'insta-tele' has been a well known problem with Fritschi and Naxo.

My personal experience with uphill mode on the Duke is extremely favorable. I really like the binding for climbing, it is only a touch heavier than a Naxo NX21, it skis 100% better... and let's be honest, binding weight is the LEAST of my problems when it comes to skinning. The climbing post is a little hard to access, especially when it's dark out. The mid-level height is impossible to switch out of without using a hand. If there is a flaw, I'd say having the climbing wire on the moving heel instead of the base plate is it.

If you want the ability to switch between uphill and downhill mode and pull skins with your ski on, it's the wrong choice. If you want to compete in Rando Rallys it's the wrong choice. Dynafit kills it for these tasks.

If you want a binding that you can ski on funky snow, if you want a binding that let's you climb but can still drive a big ski, it's the best choice available. It doesn't 'ski alright (for an AT binding)', it ski's WELL (PERIOD).

I've spent about 25 days skiing on a pair and about 10hrs skinning on them, I love them.

What would it take to get a duke for my eos?

Trek, its a 16 din binding with a minimum setting at about 8. Are you sure?
I really think you need to spend the extra money and get Dynafit bindings and some compatible AT boots.

Actually, The Blizzard Titan series, including the womens Eos, offers a Duke that works with the System set up.
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I agree with you that the Duke is an excellent binding. I wanted to be objective and call it like I see it - it is not perfect but it is very good. For me, the solid feel sells the binding. But I might not have been clear with my comments.

Perhaps I should not have used the word - flaw - but, having the lever mechanism under foot does pose some differences that has some impact on use. Note that I said that getting the alpine mode to re-engage can be a MINOR hassle. I have had to fuss with getting the plate down far enough to re-engage and it sounds like others have had the same experience. This is not a fatal problem - just my experience. BTW, I have never had the Naxos binding turn into a tele binding.

Having to remove the ski is also a minor issue. Most of the time with any binding system I remove the ski from the boot when removing skins - it is just easier to do so. There have been some circumstances when I would rather not do that. The point is that the Duke does not allow that option. Again, this is a minor point and it does not diminish an excellent binding.

The weight issue is also relatively minor as well. Frankly, I hardly notice the weight for yo yo skiing. I do like to attend to weight when I have a heavy pack and am traveling longer distances - which I have not done this year because the current snow pack scares me. Will a pound make much difference for most circumstances - probably not - but it is what it is.

I too love the binding and based on a month of skiing and alittle travel, I would recommend it to a friend.

Canadianskier, I understand what you mean about the design, I didn't mean to contradict what you were saying, I just wanted to say that the design is on purpose. They didn't overlook where they put the lever, they put it there for a specific reason, to avoid the possibility of the binding switching mode due to ski flex.

Cirque, the Duke DIN range is 6-16.

Trek- Blizzard doesn't actually offer the Eos with the FR16... but it can certainly be done.

Another opinion:

Time will take how they take all the abuse but for now I love my Dukes.

Not used them for serious touring yet...but seems like the climbing bar could be a tad higher.

I dunno, plenty of people here (and on TGR) probably consider Dukes as compromises. But as such they're pretty much the best option for a guy like me at the moment (living in flatlands, much less ski days than few years ago, travel with the family, trips usually being short...I have no interest to drag multiple pairs of skis to trips anymore!)

Mounted with 06/07 Gotamas = one-ski-one-binding all mountain set-up that allows some touring too...

Longer review (and some background info, pic & video etc.) here.

I've really gotten used to my Dukes now. I ski them almost every day. I broke out my Gotamas the other day which are still mounted with Marker 1400s. I may have to do a remount. They felt really vague compared to the Blizzards that I've been skiing. The Dukes really do feel different.

I would like to hear some comments on this too. When the Dukes came out I took a lot of sh!t for ragging on them for being heavy, requiring that you take your skis off to switch modes, and having inadequate elevators. I have been skiing Fritchis for 10 years and Freeride Pluses that last couple seasons. IMO the Dukes seemed like a rather lame AT binding for the reasons stated. They were obviously designed for area use as an alpine binding with the climbing functions coming in a very distant afterthought.

Based on how many pairs I've seen, the Dukes certainly fill a market nitch, but like Bob I have yet to see a pair going uphill. It sounds like the wide footprint on the ski and raised boot postion make it a great fat ski alpine binding, but how much time do you Duke owners actually use the free heel? I saw a guy with Dukes on reverse camber skis at Telluride last week trying to ski the bumps and was wondering how the skins would work if your tips and tails are off the snow with no weight on them. The Dukes are certainly the hippest thing to have on your skis standing in the lift line, but are they really being used to any great extent with the heels free, and if so how do they work? Any former Fritchi/Naxo users now skiing Dukes in the bc out there (other than Whiteroom)?

Will let you know after I return from Kashmir in 3 weeks (i.e. Duke climbing performance). Agree about the weight, which is why my Freeride + bindings are now looking for a lighter ski to wear (as a touring rig). I think the old saying is one pound of extra weight on the feet is worth five extra pounds on the back.

IMO, my feet are usually sliding, I rarely notice boot/binding weight when I'm skiing or skinning. Deep snow, forcing me to actually pick up my feet is another story though.

I'm still on my freeride +'s and Gotamas. (I hate the play in Freerides. I'm contemplating a Kuro next winter and am debating about a Duke or a Look. I don't plan on getting rid of my Gotamas, either. It's just hard to get a Look and NOT be tourable with my Kuros. That puts a damper on trips.

I'd probably be like; "I'd rather carry my kuro/looks than ski my old gotama/fritsche.": I suspect the Kuro is that much more fun, anyway.

I've used Fritschi's even since they came out with the Diamir. I've always like the way they toured and never really liked the way they skied. I always felt that I had to resort to some sort of old school flatfooted skiing to get down the hill. Plus the play in the system made skiing on hard snow very unpleasant. The Dukes ski great. I have them on a pair of last year's Mantras in a 177. They've turned into my everyday skis thanks in part (I believe) to how well the binding performs. The downhill performance on hard snow with either my touring boot (first year Adrenalins) or my alpine boot (Dobermann 130's) is exceptional. I have no problem with how the Duke's tour. I always take my skis off when I'm putting skins on or off so that problem is a non issue for me. Getting them back into alpine mode is a bit of a pain but you get the hang of it. The climbing post is less convenient than the Fristchi's to use. Climbing height of the post doesn't matter to me. I very rarely use the highest setting on the Fritschi's anyway....too tippy. I have Fritschi Explores on a pair of 178 AX4's. This has been my touring set up for the past few years. I have a week of touring coming up in Switzerland in April and I'm not taking the AX4's. I'll haul a little extra weight up the hill, but for me, the reward on the way down is worth it, particularly when the snow and weather conditions are being difficult.
I'll do a recap after spending six days in a row of climbing.

Heard Dukes are getting redesigned toe piece?

Are the 2009 Dukes any different/ better than 2008 Dukes (not that there are any left at knock down prices)?

Only change I am aware of is they are adding a metal washer where the screw goes into the ski under the lever. Some cracking problems , I personally have not seen any.

Marker have released a lighter, lower DIN, cheaper version of the Duke called the Baron for 2009. I haven't been able to find out to much about them but I am picking up a pair on Friday. I'll post back with some comparison info when I get them.

Was seeing more and more of the Dukes around Verbier last season. That usually means that they are a being bought for fashion rather than function. Re comments on "play" in Freeride bindings. Take a screwdriver and a playing card. Put boot in binding with playing card between boot sole and binding. Tighten heel first until you can just pull the card out. Then toe. Then release boot. Repeat the whole process. Then you should have no play in the binding.I
If you are using boots with lugged soles, make sure that if there any burrs hanging off the soles or around the toe you trim them off.

The play most people complain about comes from torque in the bar

Posers skiing 100% lift-served on AT gear is soooooo hot right now! The Fritschi Freeride is still a better AT setup anyway.... if you ever really do go touring.
I bet if I took a poll of how many skiers have Dukes but no climbing skins to go with them, it would be a high number!!!