Purchased Fischer Rebound Crown 169cm. How to put binding on?

Any tips? Pins chord center put pins about 18mm behind the center of a "mounting point area" on the ski. I have some Rottafella "Super Telemark" three pin bindings that I want to put on these skis. What part of the binding should be lined up with the "mounting point area" markings? I'm planning on mounting these myself. Any tips are appreciated.

Thanks Terry!

All the links suggest pins chord center with one mentioning alternative of using balance point. Pins chord center would have my heel hanging of the back of the raised part of the ski. There are markings for mounting point. The mounting point area is a range of about 28mm. Pins chord center is about 2mm behind the farthest back of these marks. The balance point of the ski is in the mounting area range, about 6mm forward of chord center.

These skis are intended for use with NNN BC bindings, so I don't know how the marking relate to 3pin position. If I put the pins at the farthest forward mark, my heel doesn't overhang the raised part but sits close to the end.

I want to mount significantly forward of pins chord center or pins on balance point, but I don't know why. This ski is very short for me and my boots are large. Should these factors be taken into account? I guess I feel like the boot/binding should be a little more centered on the part of the ski that appears to be designed to support the boot/binding.?

These skis have a lot of camber. I know because I have two sizes too small for me that the camber will not support my weight the way it is supposed to do, but maybe because they have patterned bases, they still might be OK for kick and glide? If I put the bindings an inch ahead pins chord center, how will this effect the diagonal striding. I started out telemarking on skinny cambered skis but never used them successfully for kick and glide. I only tried once and I didn't wax properly. In other words, I'm a nordic novice.

I'm planning on using my old Asolo Snowfield II boots. There is some cracking of the soles behind the pin holes. but they should be OK. Very comfortable. I'll probably get some Karhu Converts or similar boots eventually to use with these.

The raised area I referred to is like a built in riser on top of the ski adding only 4mm of height. The grip zone extends 8 inches beyond the front of the raised area and the back of grip zone ends at the back of the riser.

I like ball of foot over center of running surface for telemark, but these will be more for touring than turning. I'm sure I will take them on piste though. I'm excited to use light-weight gear again!

BOF/CRS puts the pins only 4mm ahead of the forwardmost part of designated "mounting point area". I think I'll mount pins at the forwardmost mark, 32mm in front of chord center, 4mm behind BOF/CRS or maybe 5mm further back from there. I've probably overthunk this whole thing. Anyway, the links provided will be very helpful for the rest of the process once I've zeroed in on the location. Thanks again.

How much fishscale is there behind the back edge of the "riser"?

Damn I want to start tely...

Sweet diamond stone holder too, I'll have to remember that.

None. The fishscale ends about 5mm in front of the end of the riser.

Because I have 3pin boots and 3pin bindings. Also I live inside the DC beltway. My opportunities to tour are limited. I also like to, well these are Fischer S'Bounds, oriented towards touring for turns. They are cambered and skinny, so better suited to rolling terrain vs. lift skiing, but I think I'd rather have a little better downhill performance than free pivot and better striding. But I don't know really how to use these skis.

I've invested less than $100 dollars on the skis. I don't know how much I will use them and am hesitant to buy new boots and bindings for them. I will probably just fart around in urban parks and the local lift served trails with possible forays on fire roads adjacent to local ski areas or in the Catoctin Mountains outside of Frederick Md., weather permitting.

Actually a cable binding would work with the boots I already have, and shouldn't cost too much. Would a cable binding improve the downhill performance as well as the touring? The binding on your Atomics look really centered on the riser compared to what I'm looking at. My skis were designed for someone much smaller than me, so that's probably why my size twelves are hanging off the back.

I would take that as a hard datum line. In other words, imo the heel must not come down behind the end of the fishscales.

On Karhus like the Pioneers and Orion/Ursas the fishscales are almost all over so backsliding on climbs by having heels too far down and back is not really a concern.

IIRC on Atomics like the ones in Alpinord's pic the scales end right at the end of the riser, so his heel is actually an inch or more in front of the fishscale end. And he's got a bit of heel lift in there.

Thanks, 'tuna. I've read the Karhus have better grip. My Fischers were cheap and I bought them despite the fact that they are not the right size for me and funky (skinny, cambered, etc.). Im determined to have fun on them. I will heed your advise and mount the bindings so the heel doesn't extend beyond the pattern. Currently leaning towards putting the pins over the foremost mark which will leave a little fishscale behind the heel. I'll probably be mulling over this for a few more days, so if anyone else has some ideas, insight, etc. please chime in.

That's cool.

I think Alpinord is a bit lucky to live in good snow without daily melt and freeze and postholing hikers in between.

He's got a point about cables for turnability, though. Would you consider something ultralight like a Rotte 412? From what I read you seem devoted to CR plates that aren't the lightest thing in the world.

CR? Meaning release plates? I would probably put them on these but there is not enough room on the riser.

I'm considering cables now after what you and Terry are telling me. He actually only said they would tour better, but I've read elsewhere that they enhance the turning too. Adding cables to the Voilés on my downhill skis didn't make a noticeable improvement in performance but my downhill boots are very stiff, thick sturdy sole. I think a cable would enhance the performance of the leather boots I'm planning on using with these skis.

That's a very generous and interesting offer. Let me think about that. Not to look a gift horse in the mouth, but I don't want to take something I won't end up using.

My boots didn't crack at the pin holes, they are cracked behind the holes. The cracks don't look too bad right now, I think I can still use them with pins, but I guess the problem will worsen.

I don't want a heavy binding on these light skinny touring skis. A tele binding that converts from touring to downhill mode would be overkill for these skis and their intended use.

OK, I guess I thought enough, I'll take the Chilis. Thanks!

Almost missed this one. What exactly are the cobras? I'm completely foreign to tele right now. No more PMs Terry?

Alpinord by switchable touring, are you referring to the new stainless steel Voile (Switchback, I think?)

That's a good question. I have bought skis, ski boots and bindings that I never used.

I promise I will use them at least a couple of days this season, more if we get snow locally. I've been a ten day a year skier lately and I have a lot of different sliding toys, so I can't say they will get a lot of use.

I'll probably take a least a short ski after work any day there is snow in the 'hood, but we usually don't get much. I wish I had just mounted them up and went last week when we got about 4 inches, but I wasn't ready. 4 inches would be enough to ski on grassy areas, right?

Right on. PM me on the shipping charges. One of the links said to put epoxy in the screw holes which makes sense to me because I pull bindings out all the time (I'm large and have balance issues). Is it OK to epoxy the screws in? Sorry if that's a dumb question. I'll try to figure out the rest out with the info you've provided. Thanks again.

A belated thank you to Alpinord for the bindings and both you and cantunamunch for helping me decide on the mount position. The project stalled when I realized I didn't have the recommended size drill bit, nor could I find it at Home Depot. I had punched the places where I wanted to drill. Then a year passed.

 

I took them to Blue Knob with me this winter because there was a very experienced mechanic who is also a nordic skier who I had met and skied with during a Telemark clinic there. Unfortunately he no longer worked there, but the young man working there did a good job. He used a jig and mentioned that my pilot holes lined up perfect, which was nice to hear.

 

I skied them a few runs that day and it was very difficult. My first nordic downhill set-up was backcountry gear, and over the course of a season or two I progressed to the point where I could ski pretty well downhill on backcountry gear, but sadly my skills have regressed. 

 

I used them a couple more times. One morning in the neighborhood before work and once at Whitetail. They don't have nordic trails at Whitetail, but I skied up the longest trail, Sidewinder, on the left side of the mountain, hiked/skied up, over, across and down the Far Side. My feet hurt really bad after that. I'm going to get some new boots. There is no way I will put my feet back into that pair. Ouch.

 

 

Thanks again for your help.

Edited by telerod15 - 5/25/2009 at 08:56 pm GMT

Haha. Every time I've upgraded skis, boots or bindings, my performance improved allowing my skills to devolve. If I had a son to chase and/or lived in the mountains, I could see locking the heels down. It's the logical next step, but I'll die before that happens. :D